{"id":8,"date":"2010-06-20T04:58:40","date_gmt":"2010-06-20T04:58:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/?p=8"},"modified":"2011-07-13T09:40:16","modified_gmt":"2011-07-13T09:40:16","slug":"8","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/?p=8","title":{"rendered":"Dec. 2010-Up the Calif Coast"},"content":{"rendered":"

DECEMBER 2010 \u2013 CALIFORNIA TASTING<\/strong>
\nWith this trip up the coast of California, WineandBeerTasting.com is introducing its rating system. Scores are based on the 100-point system, initially introduced by Robert Parker in his Wine Advocate newsletter more than three decades ago, and now widely used by other leading wine publications like Wine Spectator and International Wine Cellar.\u00a0 Most wines scored here will be fall in the 80 to 100 point range, indicating wines that range anywhere between decent with no real flaws to all-time classics.\u00a0 On the latter end of the spectrum, we are not ones to liberally use three-digit scores at every available opportunity.\u00a0 Those scores, we feel, should be reserved for the elite few \u2013 wines that transcend time and represent the very pinnacle of this art form.\u00a0 Wines like the 1945 Mouton, 1989 Haut Brion, 1985 Sassicaia or the 2001 Yquem may be considered the vinous equivalent of the Mona Lisa, Michelangelo David, or Shakespeare\u2019s Hamlet, in that there is little to no room for improvement.\u00a0 Therefore, we feel that bestowing a perfect or a near-perfect score on a wine, especially if it is still unformed and in barrel, should be done with great caution and with serious consideration of how the wine will ultimately measure up to all-time great examples within its peer group.<\/p>\n

In general, we evaluate wine based on the following parameters: color, aromatic complexity, purity and intensity of fruit, length of finish, refinement of tannins, and overall balance. Each wine\u2019s note is followed by a numerical score, which represents, in our best opinion, what the wine will drink like at its peak.\u00a0 A (+) designation behind some of the ratings suggests that the wine possesses considerable upside, and at maturity may merit an even higher rating. Also a score with a bracket, as in: [90]<\/strong><\/em> <\/strong>means that it is a tentative score and the wine was not very accessible, but would seem to score around a 90. In rare instances, a wine may not be scored at all.\u00a0 This scenario may arise if the wine is completely closed aromatically or we feel that our sample may not be truly representative of the wine for some reason. The highlighted name designates the paragraph that discusses that specific wine.
\nKeep the following two basic distinctions in mind:<\/p>\n

2007 California Reds<\/strong>– Both in Napa and Central Coast were powerful, with big fruit and an accompanying good acidity, balanced, and generally ageable.\u00a0 Some select Central Coast wines showed a slightly roasted character and were slightly out of balance.\u00a0 Overall, though, the vintage was a smashing success all the way from Santa Barbara to Napa and Sonoma.\u00a0 Wines from most properties are very easy to drink now, yet will generally benefit from a few years in the cellar.<\/p>\n

2008 California Reds<\/strong>– These wines varied dramatically all over the state. In the Central Coast, the vintage clearly appears inferior to 2007, as few Rhone-style blends exhibited pure, fruit-driven personalities.\u00a0 Most of the 2008\u2019s were quite a bit more tannic and in general more reserved than the 2007\u2019s were at the same time last year.\u00a0 The best examples will clearly benefit from a few years in the cellar, but they will never be confused with the flamboyant and extroverted 2007\u2019s.<\/p>\n

In Napa, some of the properties made better wines in 2008 than in 2007. \u00a0Like in the Central Coast, the 2007\u2019s are generally more approachable and fruity, while the 2008\u2019s display more of a cool vintage character as well as more obvious tannin.\u00a0 In select properties, the 2008\u2019s appear to have more stuffing and aging potential, and in time will likely eclipse their 2007 counterparts.\u00a0 Some 2008\u2019s are also more aromatically complex, and more thought-provoking, cerebral wines with less flash than the 2007\u2019s but with greater overall interest.
\nEnjoy.<\/p>\n

Dec. 2nd, 2010<\/em>
\nJonata<\/span><\/strong>
\nThe first stop of the day was at Jonata Winery in Buellton.\u00a0 An impressively scaled operation, Jonata strives to be much more than a conventional winery.\u00a0 Aside from the dozens of acres of grapes planted in many varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, and Syrah, Jonata also has considerable acreage devoted to olives, from which they intend to produce an estate-bottled olive oil.\u00a0 As if that were not enough, smaller projects devoted to cheese making as well as beer brewing are underway as well!<\/p>\n

The winery, located in a rather non-descript building right off State Route 101 in Santa Ynez valley, is chock-full of barrels housing primarily the 2009 and 2010 vintages.\u00a0 On this visit, however, we tasted several bottled 2007\u2019s in addition to a good number of barrel samples of the promising 2009 vintage.\u00a0 Matt Dees, the personable and energetic winemaker has been crafting powerful Bordeaux- and Rhone-style blends for the last several years.<\/p>\n

The first wine sampled was the Pairing, a second label recently introduced as a more affordable introduction to Jonata\u2019s wines.\u00a0\u00a0 The 2007 Pairing<\/strong> consists of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.\u00a0 A dark, Cabernet-dominated concoction, the Pairing is dominated by notes of cassis and licorice as well as some smoky oak.\u00a0 Already approachable, this wine represents a great value at its $25 price point.\u00a0 Although technically a second wine, the Pairing contains enough structure and extract to drink well for a decade, and may even improve with a couple of years in the cellar.\u00a0 WB 89<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The 2007 Fenix<\/strong>, a Merlot-based wine aged in 75% new oak, is one powerful youngster.\u00a0 Very dark in color, the Fenix boasts a nose of dark plum, cassis, chocolate and subtle oak.\u00a0 On the palate, a plum, cassis and a subtle iron-like note lead the way to a big blast of tannin that coats everything in sight.\u00a0 This serious, brooding Merlot begs at least a few years of bottle age in order for the components to become better integrated.\u00a0 WB93<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2007 Todos<\/strong> is an intriguing wine \u2013 a blend of 44% Syrah, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon and a host of other grapes (>5), including Viognier!\u00a0 Dark ruby-colored, the wine is dominated by its Syrah component aromatically.\u00a0 Beef blood, bacon fat and smoky olive can all be found here.\u00a0 The wine finishes with a 20+ second cascade of dark fruit, a peppery component and round tannin.\u00a0 At the $50 price point, this bottling could be considered a good value, at least when compared to its much more expensive siblings.\u00a0 WB92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

As good as the 2007 Todos is, it is towered over by its big brother, the 2007 Sangre<\/strong>, a 98% Syrah\/2% Viognier blend.\u00a0 Here, the aromatics are more powerful, while the Viognier adds intriguing floral note that is not evident in the Todos.\u00a0 Bacon fat, smoke and violets dominate the soaring nose, and the mid palate is marked by strong minerality and a powerful acidic backbone.\u00a0 At 60+ seconds, the finish is distinguished by fine-grained tannin that refuses to let go.\u00a0 This very darkly colored Syrah recalls some of the ripe vintage Hermitage wines of the Northern Rhone, yet has a personality that is all of its own.\u00a0 There is no doubt that it will last for at least two decades or longer.\u00a0 WB95<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Jumping to the barrel samples, one of the more interesting wines year in year out is the Cabernet Franc named Alma.\u00a0 Perennially one of California\u2019s best Cabernet Francs, the 2009 Alma<\/strong> does not disappoint.\u00a0 Dark red in color (but not as dark as the 2007 Sangre), the nose is redolent with freshly picked flowers and red cherries.\u00a0 Complex notes of cassis, licorice and minerality dominate the palate and don\u2019t let go for a long time.\u00a0 Even at such a young age, this is clearly a star in the making!\u00a0 WB 93-95<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The 2009 Desafio<\/strong>, Jonata\u2019s flagship Bordeaux blend, had a tough act to follow, coming on the heels of the brilliant Alma.\u00a0 Dark purple in color, the Desafio was slightly reduced on the nose.\u00a0 Once past the reductive note, cassis, licorice and dark plum component were in evidence.\u00a0 A linear, full-bodied mid-palate lead to a 30+ second finish.\u00a0 A very solid offering here that is likely to be excellent given the solid track record of this wine ever since its debut vintage of 2004. WB 92-94+.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

A big Viognier component (7%) gives the 2009 Sangre<\/strong> a violet\/lavender-like lift– some might say an effeminate touch. Lighter in color than the 2007, the 2009 barrel sample is meaty, beefy and minerally on the palate.\u00a0 Time will tell whether it will reach the great heights of the 2007, but there is little doubt that this will be a serious, uncompromising Syrah of considerable breed and nobility.\u00a0 WB 93-95+<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The 2009 La Tierra<\/strong>, a predominantly Sangiovese bottling, is darker in color than just about any other Sangiovese that I have ever tasted.\u00a0 Classically-styled Brunello this is not!\u00a0 Once past the dark color, the wine is marked by very strong acidity, a bit shocking given its hot-climate birthplace.\u00a0 Strong tannin and acid really clamp down on the finish.\u00a0 No real reference point here, so it is difficult to tell what will become of this down the road. [WB 90]<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

Stolpman Vineyards<\/span><\/strong>.
\nThe 2009 Stolpman Sauvignon Blanc<\/strong> was aged in 10% new oak.\u00a0 Lemon rind, tangerine and slight herbaciousness (but no grassiness) define the aromatics.\u00a0 A strong acidity, coupled with a citrus component, medium- to light-body cascade to a relatively short finish that vanishes in a few seconds.\u00a0 A pleasant enough, clean Sauvignon Blanc which will make for a decent quaffer on a hot summer day.\u00a0 WB86<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

A 100% Roussanne cuvee, the 2008 L\u2019Avion<\/strong> spends 20 months in 100% new French oak, primarily in 130-gallon puncheons.\u00a0 Copious kiwi and lychee flavors, a full body, high glycerin and good acidity characterize this white Rhone-styled wine that is nicely balanced and could be an interesting ringer in a flight of high quality Roussanne\/Marsanne-based wines from the southern Rhone.\u00a0 WB91<\/strong><\/em>.
\nThe 2007 Sangiovese Estate<\/strong> was aged in new oak for a total of 30 months.\u00a0 Light ruby red, cranberry, cherry notes and a strong acidic backbone are the hallmarks of this wine.\u00a0 Balanced, layered mid-palate leads to a 20+ second finish.\u00a0 A bright, deftly vinified beverage that would give many Brunellos a run for their money. WB 91<\/strong><\/em>.
\nSanta Ynez-grown fruit go into the 2008 Estate Grenache<\/strong>.\u00a0 Aromatics of dried cranberry, fig and plum give way to a crunchy fruit-filled palate that lingers for a good while.\u00a0 Tastes like a colder vintage Chateauneuf-du-Pape grown in the Central Coast.\u00a0 WB 90<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Although co-fermented with Viognier, the 2008 Syrah Originals<\/strong> is a meaty, bacon fat-laden wine in which a subdued component can only be discerned with vigorous swirling.\u00a0 Medium- to full-bodied, with good fruit density, the Originals ends with a big tannic punch that lingers for 20+ seconds on the palate.\u00a0 WB90+<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

A <\/em>flagship Syrah, the 2008 Hilltops <\/strong>is dark red in color.\u00a0 The Viognier component provides considerable aromatic lift to the otherwise dark plum and smoky meat aromatics.\u00a0 Considerable tannin in the finish will demand a few years in the cellar.\u00a0 A serious Syrah, but perhaps not as true to varietal here as at other properties visited on this trip.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Paul Lato Wines<\/span><\/strong>
\nPerhaps the biggest revelation on this whirlwind journey through the Central Coast was the incredibly high quality of the wines of Santa Maria-based Paul Lato.\u00a0 Lato, a former sommelier, produces some of the more compelling examples of California pinot noir that I have sampled to date.\u00a0 Impeccable balance and purity set apart these wines from their west coast brethren.\u00a0 Alas, with only <25 barrels of juice per vintage, these elixirs are difficult to come by.\u00a0 All of the following notes are from barrel samples, while being so, they are more finely balanced and approachable than most other wines once already bottled.<\/p>\n

As the only white in the 2009 stable, the 2009 Sierra Madre Chardonnay<\/strong> is light gold in color.\u00a0 Packed with prominent citrus fruit on the nose and palate, this Chardonnay is quite minerally in the mid-palate, with some unresolved oak lurking in the background.\u00a0 With powerful mineral- and melon-infused finish of at least 20 seconds, this concoction would benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age.\u00a0 Clearly in a Burgundian style here, like a top flight Puligny premier cru from the likes of Sauzet or Henri Boillot.\u00a0 WB93-95<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2009 Pinot Noir Solomon Hills Vineyard Suerte<\/strong> sees 100% new oak during \u00e9levage.\u00a0 Rich ruby red in color, with a deep red cherry and an exotic floral note, the wine is equally beautiful on the palate, with liquid cashmere-like texture that is a testament to superior winemaking skill.\u00a0 Surprisingly fresh in the mouth yet richly fruited, this is far from your typical full-throttle fruit bomb that passes as pinot noir in some parts of the state. WB 93-95+<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

A new bottling, the 2009 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot Noir Sea Biscuit<\/strong> hails from the Santa Rita Hills.\u00a0 Like the Suerte before it, the thing that stands out the most is the incredible silkiness and balance here.\u00a0 Displaying ripe cherry, raspberry and intriguing eucalyptus aromatics, this nectar seamlessly cascades across the palate with layer after layer of red fruit flavors.\u00a0 A remarkably beautiful wine!\u00a0 WB94-96+<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

For the first time, Paul Lato was able source some Pinot Noir grapes from the Hilliard Bruce vineyard in Santa Rita Hills for his own use (he serves as a consulting winemakers for Hilliard Bruce Vineyards).\u00a0 Light on its feet, the 2009 Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong> displays the same refined seamlessness that is found in spades in the Suerte and Sea Biscuit.\u00a0 Medium red in color, the wine is marked by cherry cola and potpourri notes.\u00a0 On the palate, it is nearly weightless, but is packed with red raspberries, cherries and a hint of plums.\u00a0 A proverbial \u201ciron fist in a velvet glove\u201d!\u00a0 WB 93-95+<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

By contrast, the 2009 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir<\/strong> is much darker in color.\u00a0 Aromatically, dark cherry, plum, black raspberry and a hint of smoke can all be found here.\u00a0 The serious theme carries through on the palate, where a whiplash of acidity and some earth undertones prevent the sweet dark fruit from taking over.\u00a0 For all of its power, this wine has the same magical refinement as the Suerte, Sea Biscuit and Hilliard Bruce.\u00a0 A more serious, if not necessarily better, counterpart to some of the more red-fruited pinots in this portfolio.\u00a0 WB93-95+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Also dark in color, the 2009 Fiddlestix<\/strong> exhibits aromatics of cherry coke, black raspberry and spices.\u00a0 On the palate, flavors of black cherry preserves, iron, minerals and smoke are impressively powerful and complex, yet one can sense that the overall product is a bit more rugged and slightly less polished than the other Pinot Noirs on display here.\u00a0 By the exalted standards of this operation, this is more Pommard than Vosne-Romanee.\u00a0 WB 91-93+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

In addition to the Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs, Paul Lato also produces Syrahs of distinction.\u00a0 The 2009 Bien Nacido Syrah Hillside<\/strong> is co-fermented with 5% Viognier.\u00a0 Spice, bacon fat and floral notes lead to a deep, meaty palate crammed with dark plum, tapenade, and some pepper.\u00a0 While bigger in body than the Pinot Noirs, the Bien Nacido Hillside Syrah possesses the same level of refinement and balance that are found throughout the Pinot Noir lineup.\u00a0 There is nothing warm climate about this Syrah \u2013 in fact, I think it would make for a great ringer in a lineup of top-notch C\u00f4te-Roties from a ripe vintage.\u00a0 A sample from a second barrel was equally impressive. WB 94-96+<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Finally, the 2009 Larner<\/strong> was aromatically closed, making it more difficult to assess.\u00a0 Like the Bien Nacido Hillside, the Larner sports a glass-staining dark purple color.\u00a0 Full-bodied and meaty, with hints of black olive, it does not seem to be as floral as the Bien Nacido Hillside.\u00a0 Judgment reserved.<\/p>\n

Dec. 3rd, 2010<\/em>
\nAdelaide Cellars<\/span><\/strong>
\n2008 Version White (58% Roussanne, 42% Grenache Blanc) is a pleasant Northern Rhone-style white.\u00a0 Medium- to full-bodied, with notes of pineapple and peach and a slightly waxy quality that lead to a medium finish with good acidity.\u00a0 WB87<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

2008 HMR Vineyard Pinot Noir is light ruby red in color.\u00a0 Aged in 30% new oak barrels, the wine is medium- to light-bodied, with red cherry and currant flavors, bracing, crisp acidity.\u00a0 By no means overpowering, this Pinot should be consumed over the next few years. WB88<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve<\/strong> is considerably darker in color than the HMR Vineyard bottling, with a crimson hue prevalent.\u00a0 Medium-bodied, with deep cherry, tart raspberry and exotic spice flavors that lead to a tannin-dominated finish that really clamps down on the mouth.\u00a0 This really needs a few years of bottle age to shed away some of the tannin cloak.\u00a0 WB 89+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Dark red in color, the 2007 Syrah Anna\u2019s Estate<\/strong> is filled with smoky beef, bacon fat and black olive aromas.\u00a0 In the mouth, this powerful syrah is full-bodied and tannic.\u00a0 Big, slightly gritty tannins make their presence known on the 20+ second finish.\u00a0 This could use a bit of refinement, or at the very least a 2-3 hour aeration.\u00a0 WB 89<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

A bit four-square is the 2007 Viking Reserve Cabernet<\/strong>.\u00a0 A bit closed on the nose, some vigorous swirling reveals hints of cassis, red cherry and plum.\u00a0 Medium bodied, the wine lingers on the palate for more than 30 seconds.\u00a0 It could use a bit complexity, although it might just be in an awkward stage at the moment.\u00a0 [WB90]<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

The 2006 The Don<\/strong> is a Port-Like wine that carries lots of sweetness throughout, but very little acidity.\u00a0 These sorts of wines always confound me, so I will reserve judgment.<\/p>\n

An interesting mix consisting of 68% Muscat and 32% Viognier, the 2007 Dessert Wine<\/strong> offers up aromas of strawberry, kiwi, and passion fruit.\u00a0 Compote-like sweetness on the palate is coupled with low acidity, which makes it difficult to drink more than a few sips.\u00a0 WB85<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Tablas Creek<\/span><\/strong>
\nOur visit to Tablas Creek reinforced my image of the winery as a Napa wannabe.\u00a0 From the rather ostentatious tasting room to the general attitude encountered among the people working at the winery and tasting room, there was much bustle and self-important attitude (how many times can one mention that one of their wines is on the Wine Spectator top 100 list?) evident throughout.\u00a0 That\u2019s a shame, really, because the wines are quite good, and some still represent excellent value relative to their release prices.<\/p>\n

We started the tasting with the 2009 Cotes du Tablas Blanc<\/strong>.\u00a0 A second label of sorts to their Esprit Blanc, the Cotes du Tablas Blanc is a blend of 45% Viognier, 28% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne and 7% Grenache Blanc.\u00a0 Subdued aromas of lemon, quince, and flowers on the nose lead to a strong acidic profile in the mouth, with bitter pits, lemon rind and overt oaky element that detracts from the wine\u2019s balance.\u00a0 This is meant to be drunk on the young side.\u00a0 WB 87<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

A big step up was the 2009 Esprit Blanc<\/strong>.\u00a0 Aromas of quince, pear and ginger lead to a medium- to full-bodied white with a slightly waxy texture and a 20+ second finish.\u00a0 Unlike the Cotes du Tablas version, the oak here is perfectly integrated and as a result, the wine is much more harmonious. WB 90<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Yet another notch better is the 2007 Esprit Blanc<\/strong>.\u00a0 A blend of 68% Roussanne, 22% Grenache and 10% Picpoul, it exhibits aromas predominantly consisting of citrus fruit and pears.\u00a0 On the palate, the full-bodied, slightly waxy, tangerine-dominated palate leads to a long clean finish with no discernable oak notes.\u00a0 This one will age effortlessly, but is already drinking very well.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

An interesting counterpoint to the 2007 Esprit Blanc is the 2009 Bergeron<\/strong>, a 100% Roussanne Cuvee that can only be obtained at the winery.\u00a0 This wine has the sheer thickness of Arnold Schwarzenegger \u2013 but is rather clumsy in other respects.\u00a0 Pungent aromas of beeswax and flowers lead to a viscous, glycerol mid-palate that is honeyed yet bitter at the same time.\u00a0 The rather abrupt finish is refreshing, but one cannot help but ask as to why not try to go for a touch more grace here at the expense of the big muscle. WB 89<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The final white we tasted was a 100% Chardonnay called the 2009 Antithesis<\/strong>.\u00a0 Aged in mostly old oak, the wine was closed aromatically when we tasted it.\u00a0 Medium-bodied, citrusy, with bracing acidity, this Chardonnay resembles a good quality Puligny at the Villages level.\u00a0 A good effort that can be drank now.\u00a0 WB 88<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The first red we sampled, the 2008 Cotes du Tablas Creek<\/strong>, had a pleasant note of red cherries, cranberries and pomegranate.\u00a0 Medium-bodied, with delicate red cherry flavors on the palate, the wine culminates with a 15-second finish and light tannin.\u00a0 A pleasant wine meant for current consumption.\u00a0 WB88<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

As expected, the 2008 Esprit<\/strong> is a much more serious red than the Cotes above.\u00a0 Considerably darker in color, the wine unfurls raspberry, cherry aromatics as well as an intriguing spice note.\u00a0 Bigger on the palate as well, with some earthy overtones, finishing with big, dusty tannins that coat most of the gums.\u00a0 It is a serious Rhone-style blend that will probably improve after 2-3 years of cellar aging.\u00a0 WB92+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Earth dominates the 2006 Esprit<\/strong>, both on the palate and on the nose.\u00a0 Medium red in color, with musky, earthy notes interspersed with red raspberries, meat and herbs, the wine continues to hold on with a long lingering finish that is characterized by its round tannins.\u00a0 A very successful bottling, but won\u2019t make anyone forget about the ethereal 2007 version.\u00a0 WB91<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2007 Syrah<\/strong>, which contains a dollop of Grenache, is a dark-colored, modern-styled beverage.\u00a0 Dark cherries, plums, and a faint olive note are the hallmarks of this wine.\u00a0 Medium- to full-bodied, this dark-fruited Syrah ends with massive tannins that demand at least several years\u2019 worth of bottle age.\u00a0 The only shortcoming on this is that tell-tale Syrah aromas appear to be in short order here.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong>. <\/em><\/p>\n

There is no doubting that the 2008 Mouvedre<\/strong> is true to its terroir<\/em>.\u00a0 Filled with dark fruits, slightly spicy and gamey, this beverage steamrolls through the mouth and leaves a huge tannic track in its place.\u00a0 Really cries out for a few years in bottle.\u00a0 WB 89+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Unlike the 2008 Mouvedre, I did not find the 2008 Tannat<\/strong> all that exciting.\u00a0 Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is fairly tight, with copious plum and animal notes present throughout.\u00a0 It would need several years to let down its guard. A bit thin in the mouth, it drops off at the end like a boulder at the edge of a precipice. At this point, the wine is of academic interest only. But, I give kudos to the winemaker for trying to wrestle with this varietal. Judgment reserved.<\/p>\n

The 2006 Vin de Paille<\/strong>, a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier, is an alluring wine.\u00a0 Pretty notes of honey, ginger, and flowers lead to palate saturated in marmalade and candied citrus slices.\u00a0 Best part is that there is a generous amount of acidity on the finish, so that the wine never becomes cloying or tiring.\u00a0 Delicious! WB 92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Even more unusual is the 2006 Sacre Rouge<\/strong>, a 100% Mourvedre (yes, Mourvedre!) dessert wine.\u00a0 Orange-red in color, it exhibits complex notes of figs and plum compote.\u00a0 The sweetness is prevalent on the palate, and an unusual gamey component adds to the interest here.\u00a0 Could use a touch more acidity.\u00a0 Interesting wine here, but not for everyone. Again mostly of academic interest, but sometimes experimental uses of uncommon varietals can be rewarding.\u00a0 WB88<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Tolo Cellars<\/span><\/strong>
\nLet me preface this review with an explanation of the Tolo Cellars barrel aging techniques. Most of their wines are aged in neutral barrels, with most wines spending anywhere from 3 to 9 years in barrel prior to bottling.\u00a0 As one would expect with such an unusual barrel aging regimen, the resulting wines exhibit considerable aged and oxidative characteristics that may be appealing to some.\u00a0 Fruit bombs these are not! Chardonnay II<\/strong>, a non-vintage blend of fruit from the 2006 and 2007 vintages, is pale yellow in color, and has strong butterscotch and oxidative aromas.\u00a0 I could not get past either, so judgment reserved!<\/p>\n

By comparison, the 2006 Pinot Noir<\/strong> is much better.\u00a0 Translucent red in color, this gently extracted wine displays notes of red raspberry, cherry and eucalyptus.\u00a0 Light- to medium-bodied, delicate flavors of cherry and tart cranberry lead to an acidic finish with little tannin to speak of.\u00a0 Lacks the polish exhibited by many of the Pinots that we tasted on this trip.\u00a0 Drink now.\u00a0 WB85<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The 2006 Aria<\/strong>, a blend consisting of 55% Syrah, 27% Grenache and 18% Counoise, was ruby red in color.\u00a0 Marked by a light cherry note and some spice, this tasted much older than the vintage indicates.\u00a0 Medium bodied, with light tannin on the rather abrupt and acidic finish, this is ready to go.\u00a0 WB85<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2006 Syrah<\/strong> displayed aromatics of black cherries, beef and some funk.\u00a0 Like the Aria, this wine was medium-bodied and is gently extracted with a bright, acidic profile and clear crimson color.\u00a0 This really could use a bit more mid-palate punch, at it is a bit light for a Syrah.\u00a0 This too should be consumed on the early side.\u00a0 WB 88<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

A varietal that I am normally not very fond of, the 2007 Zinfandel<\/strong> delivers an olfactory shock with notes of cherry cola, campfire smoke and raspberry.\u00a0 Once past the ostentatious nose, the wine is medium bodied, filled with red cherry, cranberry and slight spice on the back end.\u00a0 With no traces of alcohol that are so common with this varietal in general and in this region in particular, the wine ends rather abruptly on the palate.\u00a0 Not exactly your run-of-the-mill Zin here.\u00a0 WB 88<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Recently bottled, the 2001 Assini (60% Sangiovese and 40% Zinfandel) spent nearly nine years in barrel prior to bottling in the fall of2010!\u00a0 Much darker in color than the preceding wines, with cola, spice and underbrush notes, this medium-bodied wine carries dark fig flavors and a leathery component into a tannin-filled finish.\u00a0 This will hold for a while.\u00a0 Could not be more different than the other wines from this winery.\u00a0 WB 89<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

A 100% Sangiovese-based dessert wine, the 2006 Riza<\/strong> is a port-styled wine.\u00a0 Sweet, slightly stewed nose of black cherry and herbs leads to a raspberry liquor-like mid palate that could use a bit more acidity.\u00a0 Interesting for academic reasons only.\u00a0 WB 84<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Chateau Margene<\/span><\/strong>
\nThe 2007 Mouvedre<\/strong> has some redcurrant and cranberry fruit buried behind a kinky nose dominated by pepper, olive and smoke.\u00a0 A bit tannic on the fairly short finish. WB 86<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Dark ruby in color, the 2007 Pinot Noir has a red fruit-dominated nose with some reduction stink that is not very pleasant.\u00a0 On the palate, the wine displays excessive sweetness and not enough acidity.\u00a0 A poster child for overdone CA Pinot Noir.\u00a0 WB 81<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Better is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>.\u00a0 Dark purple in color, this Cabernet is at present dominated by cassis and Asian spices.\u00a0 Very fruit-forward in style with a medium finish, this can be drunk now or cellared over the short term. <\/strong>WB87<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The 2007 Syrah<\/strong> has a soaring nose with beef, olives, and camphor.\u00a0 The palate, however, does not quite live up to the aromatics, with a rather four-square dark plum fruit component that leads to an unexpectedly short finish. WB 88<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Darker in color still is the 2007 Petite Syrah<\/strong>, which in this instance is blended with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.\u00a0 With a meaty, savory and slightly smoky nose, the wine leads to a very fruity mid palate that culminates with a 15 second finish with some tannin.\u00a0 Could be drunk now but probably better in 2-3 years.\u00a0 WB89<\/strong>. <\/em><\/p>\n

Dec. 4th, 2010<\/em>
\nNAPA VALLEY<\/span><\/strong>
\nArkenstone<\/span><\/strong>
\nThere is no doubt in my mind that the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc<\/strong> is the finest CA Sauvignon Blanc that I\u2019ve tasted in the past few years.\u00a0 Melon and white flowers on the nose, this medium- to full-bodied(!) Sauvignon Blanc is crammed with honeydew melon, pear and a touch of orange zest.\u00a0 Impeccably balanced, with none of the herbaceous and grassy aromas that typically characterize Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire of New Zealand, this wine will actually benefit from several years of cellaring.\u00a0 Shows absolutely no traces of oak.\u00a0 WB94<\/strong>.<\/em>
\nThe 2007 Syrah<\/strong>, of which there is only 50 cases\u2019 worth, is dark purple in color.\u00a0 Aromatically exhibiting bacon fat, black olives and rosemary aromas of moderate intensity, the wine is remarkably polished and light on its feet for such a big Syrah.\u00a0 On the palate, dark cherry, herbs and minerals are dominant, with a seamless texture that effortlessly transitions into a long finish with substantial, but polished tannins.\u00a0 I wouldn\u2019t touch this for several years. WB 92+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The flagship 2007 Obsidian<\/strong>, a Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is deep purple in color.\u00a0 Aromatically, one could easily discern black raspberries, mocha, flowers, and lead pencil on the effusive nose.\u00a0 Big and powerful in the mouth, with cassis, plums, underbrush and considerable minerality coexisting harmoniously.\u00a0 For a wine packing such a big punch, it is remarkably svelte.\u00a0 Finishes very long (45+ seconds), with enormous tannins.\u00a0 Unlike the 2006 Obsidian, which could be drunk on release, this one is for the cellar.\u00a0 But in the long term, the 2007 Obsidian will probably eclipse its more approachable older brother.\u00a0 WB 94+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Outpost<\/span><\/strong>
\nThe 2008 Grenache<\/strong> (250 cases) is translucent red in color.\u00a0 Powerful aromas of Provencal herbs that lead to a medium-bodied wine crammed with strawberry, cranberry and violets.\u00a0 Very good balance, acidity and tannin, and no animal notes what-so-ever.\u00a0 A real crowd pleaser.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Rich purple in color, the 2008 Outpost Zinfandel<\/strong> (1000 cases) is characterized by notes of blueberries, incense and figs.\u00a0 Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, with notable smoothness, the wine effortlessly carries a rich blue fruit mid-palate to a lingering finish filled with fine-grained tannins.\u00a0 A young, but very good Zinfandel!\u00a0 WB 91<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> is dark ruby red in color.\u00a0 Soaring cassis note interspersed with a slight leafy character that adds to the complexity here.\u00a0 Silky on the palate with liqueur-like sweetness.\u00a0 Really fans out on the finish, where the big tannins and serious structure make themselves apparent.\u00a0 A very nice wine with considerable polish.\u00a0 WB92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Next, we moved onto the 2007 Outpost True Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>.\u00a0 A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2007 True Cabernet struck up dark cherry, raspberry and some smoky notes.\u00a0 Beautiful cassis fruit and liqueur-like elements seamlessly transition into a long and fruit-filled finish.\u00a0 Drinking well already, this will age effortlessly.\u00a0 A spectacular Cabernet that is polished to the max, this is a wine to seek out!\u00a0 WB 96<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

In comparison with the rock star 2007, the 2008 True Cabernet<\/strong> comes across much less focused.\u00a0 Subdued nose of black raspberries, plums, flowers and a hint of herbs, with a spicy nature characterize this serious and masculine wine.\u00a0 Potentially more complex than the 2007, it is dense and filled with dark berries, with a distinctly cool climate character to the fruit, and with none of the liqueur-like sweetness that is the hallmark of the 2007 bottling.\u00a0 This very serious wine will benefit from a few years\u2019 rest in the cellar, and only suffers in comparison with its more extroverted older brother.\u00a0 Only time will tell if it will catch up, or even surpass the 2007. WB92-94+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2008 Petite Syrah<\/strong> is an impenetrable inky purple in color.\u00a0 Very sweet boysenberry and dark cherry compote flavors are in evidence throughout.\u00a0 In spite of its massive size, the wine shares the same polish that makes the Cabernets here such standouts.\u00a0 Enormous tannins on the finish beg for at least 3-4 years of undisturbed cellaring.\u00a0 Fans of Napa Petit Syrah should be all over this.\u00a0 WB 93<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

O\u2019Shaughnessy<\/span><\/strong>
\nThe 2007 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> has tons of dark fruit, smoke and spices on the nose.\u00a0 On the palate, this wine has a full body, is minerally with a good amount of tannin poking through the fruit.\u00a0 For all of its concentration, it is still missing a bit of refinement compared to some of the elite Howell Mountain Cabs.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

A step up in quality is the 2007 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>.\u00a0 Inky purple in color, this very dense wine boasts lots of cassis, spice, and underlying minerality.\u00a0 It is also longer and slightly fresher than its 2007 Howell Mountain brother.\u00a0 Long finish with serious tannins here \u2013 needs to be aged for a minimum of 5-7 years.\u00a0 WB93+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Kapcsandy<\/span><\/strong>
\n2009 Rose<\/strong> (63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot) is a very nice mid-summer day\u2019s drink.\u00a0 With considerable stuffing, good acidity and beautiful strawberry and red cherry flavors, this aromatic rose is one of the best Rose\u2019s that I\u2019ve tasted out of Napa Valley. A serious Rose.\u00a0 WB 89<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

2003 State Lane Vineyard Proprietary Red<\/strong> (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot) is the first wine produced from Kapcsandy\u2019s State Lane Vineyard after replanting.\u00a0 Already displaying some evolved aromas of sweet tobacco, a touch of leather, red raspberries and flowers, this medium-bodied wine is ready to drink, but will continue to evolve over the next 5-10 years.\u00a0 WB90<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

The 2006 Estate Cuvee State Lane Vineyard<\/strong> (48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc) is a noticeable step up in intensity and quality.\u00a0 It has a dark ruby red in color, with smoke, black cherry and plum on the nose.\u00a0 The deep, concentrated mid-palate is loaded with cassis that is deftly balanced by just the right amount of acidity.\u00a0 Not too dissimilar to a ripe vintage classified Margaux.\u00a0 In a word \u2013 fabulous!\u00a0 WB93<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

A second wine of sorts, the 2007 Endre<\/strong> is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot.\u00a0 A very approachable Bordeaux blend, the 2007 Endre<\/strong> is actually mostly (85%) press wine.\u00a0 Dark raspberries and plums can be found all over the place here, and the wine has a very opulent feel to it, especially for a second label.\u00a0 Drink now.\u00a0 WB92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2007 Estate Cuvee State Lane Vineyard<\/strong> (46% Cabernet, 46% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot) is very dark in color, especially compared to the Endre.\u00a0 A bewitching nose of red raspberry, aromatic herbs and sweet earth leads to a full-bodied, cassis- and licorice-infused nectar that has remarkable polish on the palate.\u00a0 The serious tannins arrive quite late.\u00a0 This is even better than the 2006.\u00a0 Fabulous!\u00a0 WB 95<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2008 Endre<\/strong> is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (16%) and Petit Verdot (8%).\u00a0 A dark, brooding nose of smoke, red and black raspberries jumps from the glass.\u00a0 On the palate, plums, earth, smoke and serious minerality are all in abundance.\u00a0 Not liqueur-like at all, with a long 25+ second finish.\u00a0 This second wine is good enough to compete with many so-called first labels in Napa and elsewhere.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

As good as the 2008 Endre is, it does not measure up to the 2008 Estate Cuvee State Lane Vineyard<\/strong> (68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot).\u00a0 Beautiful aromas of black raspberry, plum, flowers and bay leaf soar from the glass.\u00a0 A big, round mid-palate is full of cassis and carries the impeccable balance into a long, broad finish.\u00a0 On the same level as the 2007, and possibly even better. WB 96<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong>, blended in this case with 8% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, displays aromatics of cassis, licorice and plum that are uncompromising in their intensity.\u00a0 A bit monolithic at present on the palate, the wine is crammed with beautiful dark fruit and minerals.\u00a0 Very round tannins reach everywhere on the long finish.\u00a0 This is at the same level as or perhaps a hair below the 2008 Estate in overall quality.\u00a0 I suspect that this will be much better in 5 years\u2019 time.\u00a0 WB94+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> contains 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, is an impenetrable inky purple, nearly black in color.\u00a0 Licorice, blackberries, lead pencil and violets comprise the highly aromatic nose.\u00a0 On the palate, cassis and minerality dominate the taste buds.\u00a0 The texture here is ethereal, and a near perfect balance and weightlessness that can only be found in very few cabernets in the world. It finishes explosively with round, very fine tannins that linger on the palate for longer than a minute.\u00a0 Wow!\u00a0 WB 96+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

If liberally thrown superlatives bother you, and then please feel free to skip over the loose verbiage referencing the following wine.\u00a0 I am talking about the 2008 Roberta\u2019s Reserve<\/strong>, a predominantly Merlot-based wine that also contains a small percentage of Cabernet Franc (4%) that left me nearly speechless.\u00a0 With a highly aromatic nose of lavender, plums, red raspberry, coffee and smoke, this utterly seamless wine packs a serious wallop on the olfactory senses and salivary glands.\u00a0 Red raspberry preserves, mocha, orange peel and deep minerality are accompanied by a near weightless sensation on the palate, leaving this taster to shake his head in disbelief as if the flavors somehow magically materialized on the palate.\u00a0 Really fans out on the very long, kaleidoscopic finish that just won\u2019t quit.\u00a0 This is, without a doubt, the best US Merlot that I\u2019ve tasted, and would make for a great ringer against top vintages of Pomerol superstars such as Trotanoy, La Conseillante, and L\u2019Evangile etc.\u00a0 My favorite wine of the trip<\/span>. WB 98<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

EMH Black Cat<\/span><\/strong>
\nComing from a small (<1 acre) vineyard in St. Helena near the Silverado Trail, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> is the star of the stable.\u00a0 Already accessible, it boasts cassis, currants, and licorice on the palate.\u00a0 Medium- to full-bodied, this wine shows judicious extraction and a complete absence of over-ripe elements that are all too common in Napa Valley floor cabernets.\u00a0 Long finish with plenty of blackberries and some fine grained tannins.\u00a0 This is enjoyable now, but will get better in a few years. WB93<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> is probably a tiny notch below the 2007 in overall quality, which is saying something!\u00a0 Purple in color, it tastes like a cooler climate version of the 2007.\u00a0 Richly-fruited and well-balanced, this wine still has some oak and tannin to integrate, and really needs to be cellared for a few years.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Our sample of the 2009 Black Cat<\/strong> was much more similar to the 2007 than the 2008.\u00a0 Very dark red in color, the wine had an expansive nose of black cherries, black raspberries and aromatic herbs.\u00a0 Lots of fruit on the palate, and little to no detectable oak makes the wine drinkable already, even though it has yet to be bottled. One of the few times it was sampled in barrel. Excellent!\u00a0 WB92-93+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Dec. 5th, 2010<\/em>
\nHDV<\/span><\/strong>
\nA de-facto second wine, the 2008 de la Guerra Chardonnay<\/strong> primarily consists of juice from young vines grown in the Hyde vineyard in Carneros.\u00a0 Aromatically, the wine displays tangerine, lemon, and a hint of white flowers.\u00a0 Medium-bodied on the palate, with a distinctly orange and pear profile, it transitions to a 15-second finish marked by serious acidity and lingering minerality.\u00a0 While it does not have the power of the Estate Chardonnay, it is an enjoyable drink nonetheless.\u00a0 WB 88<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2005 Estate Chardonnay, on the other hand, is anything but lacking in power.\u00a0 Aromas of citrus, nut oil, and traces of pineapple and oak are at once more powerful and defined than the preceding wine.\u00a0 Medium- to full-bodied, with orange, quinine and a very powerful stony sensation on the palate is accompanied with bracing acidity.\u00a0 The long finish continues the sensation of liquefied granite and is accompanied by a youthful bitterness that is normally absent in New World Chardonnay, but is found in some of the better examples from Corton-Charlemagne and Chablis.\u00a0 A bit disjointed now, this could really improve in a few years\u2019 time.\u00a0 WB 91+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Tasted last year from barrel, the 2007 Syrah continues on its positive evolutionary trajectory.\u00a0 Notes of bacon fat, underbrush, Provencal spices are all in evidence.\u00a0 Musky black cherries, tapenade and hints of gaminess characterize that medium-bodied palate.\u00a0 Even at this early stage, the wine is impeccably balanced and without a sharp edge in sight.\u00a0 While approachable now, this too will benefit from a few years in the cellar.\u00a0 WB 93+<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

There are only 125 cases of the deep purple-hued 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.\u00a0 Aromas of black raspberries, cassis, violets and bay leaf on the nose give the impression of a cool-climate year.\u00a0 Medium-bodied, with cassis, plums and striking minerality on the palate, this is hardly your typical Napa Cabernet.\u00a0 Cool, deep dark fruit with slightly green undertones continue to linger on the palate for more than 20 seconds, and are accompanied by a whiplash of serious tannin that grip like a vice.\u00a0 If the fruit outlive the tannin, this could be even better than it is showing at the moment.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Alpha Omega<\/span><\/strong>
\nThis winery was a real revelation on our Napa trip last year, and their flagship wine, the Era, was one of the wines of the trip.\u00a0 Whereas last year we felt that some of the lesser wines were just so-so, the tasting this year demonstrated to us that the winery has been ratcheting up the quality as of late.\u00a0 This is one of the few wineries where the 2008\u2019s may outperform the 2007\u2019s.<\/p>\n

First up was the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc<\/strong> (clone 1155).\u00a0 This cuvee sees 20% new oak, but it is completely soaked up by the fruit.\u00a0 Aromatically, this is easily identifiable as a Sauvignon Blanc due to the tell-tale grassy aromas.\u00a0 In addition, one could discern pink grapefruit, lemon, and flowers in this medium- to full-bodied wine that is quite fruity, but not at all sweet.\u00a0 WB 91<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay<\/strong> exhibits aromas of lemon and white flowers.\u00a0 On the palate, this Chardonnay is medium-bodied and tastes like a liquefied Granny Smith apple mixed with crushed stone.\u00a0 Laser-like acidity, the absence of any discernable tropical fruit and a long, harmonious finish fool the taster into believing that this is like a high quality 1er Cru Puligny or a minerally Meursault-Perrieres.\u00a0 WB 93<\/strong>. <\/em>
\n<\/em>
\nIn comparison with the Burgundy-style 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay, the 2008 Unfiltered Chardonnay <\/strong>comes across as full-blown California.\u00a0 Slightly oaky, with copious tropical fruit on the palate and nose, and a hint of butter, this wine makes no pretenses as to its place of birth.\u00a0 High viscosity is accompanied with surprising acidity, which prevents the wine from being cloying.\u00a0 A good wine for those who like the style.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong><\/em>.
\nThe 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> contains a small amount of Merlot (8%) in the mix.\u00a0 Beautiful nose of cassis, violets and plums.\u00a0 Lively on the palate, with a pure red fruit character.\u00a0 Fans out on the long finish with round tannins and a lingering note of cassis.\u00a0 Very good!\u00a0 WB92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Switching gears to the 2007 Proprietary Red<\/strong> (50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot).\u00a0 Soaring aromatics of cassis, coffee, and lavender, play off a minerally mid-palate with red raspberry, plum, and licorice.\u00a0 It finishes with big tannins that beg for bottle age.\u00a0 But there is no doubting the high quality here. WB 93<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Even more exciting is the 2008 Proprietary Red<\/strong>.\u00a0 Although a bit shy at present, the beautiful nose can be coaxed to reveal flowers, aromatic spices and pencil lead.\u00a0\u00a0 It is beautiful on the palate with deep black cherry, raspberry and while having a minerally streak that won\u2019t quit.\u00a0 A very long finish with very fine tannins makes this a very approachable yet cellar-worthy Cabernet.\u00a0 A buy! WB 94<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

The 2008 Era<\/strong> (52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot), tasted from barrel, is a behemoth of a wine.\u00a0 Inky purple in color, with sensational aromatics of blueberries, violets, lavender, and incense, this is not for the shy of heart!\u00a0 Liqueur-like in density on the palate, with licorice, blueberries and ripe plums harmoniously co-existing with structural components and acidity in an unabashedly full-bodied yet refined package. It finishes for 50+ seconds with huge tannins and lingering sweetness.\u00a0 This is pure Napa decadence.\u00a0 Wow!\u00a0 WB 94-96.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

As hard as it is to imagine, the 2008<\/strong> To-Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> may be even better than the Era!\u00a0 Outrageously intense nose of violets, raspberries and lead pencil jumps from the glass.\u00a0 Incredibly complex, with a rich mouth feel and flavors that seamlessly transition from cassis to earth, from leather to smoke, all underpinned by gentle minerality.\u00a0 The amazingly long finish lasts for at least 60 seconds, throughout which gentle tannins caress the palate.\u00a0 A runner-up for wine of the trip!\u00a0 WB 96.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

The 2008 Late Harvest<\/strong> wine is a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Semillon.\u00a0 Apricot, honey and peach show themselves on the nose.\u00a0 Fruit compote, nectarine and beeswax can readily be found on the palate.\u00a0 It finishes long and sweet, with just enough acidity to keep the wine from becoming cloying. 170g\/L residual sugar.\u00a0 WB 92<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

A dead ringer for a high-quality Sauternes, the 2006 Late Harvest Reserve <\/strong>is 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon.\u00a0 Strong botrytis displays itself on the nose, while candied oranges, peaches and apricots on the very sweet mid-palate. There is just enough acidity to keep things in check.\u00a0 A very nice effort. WB 93<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Beringer<\/span><\/strong>
\nThe 2008 Sbragia Chardonnay<\/strong> was aged for 9 months in 100% new French oak barrels.\u00a0 Pineapple, tropical fruit and some oak on the nose.\u00a0 Really comes off as California style, with obvious buttery overtones on the palate.\u00a0 Medium finish with considerable toast.\u00a0 Fans of California-style Chardonnay would love this.\u00a0 WB 91<\/strong>.<\/em>
\n<\/em>
\nAging gracefully is the 2003 Howell Mountain Merlot<\/strong>, (from a Magnum) which in this vintage is blended with a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (7%).\u00a0 Silky-smooth on the entry, with dark fruit overtones, including cassis, plum and flower notes.\u00a0 Pretty well balanced, and while drinkable now, will hold for a while.\u00a0 Just lacks a little oomph to be truly memorable. Perhaps it is a bit past its prime. WB 90<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Better is the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve<\/strong>.\u00a0 Violet, super-ripe raspberry, and liqueur aromatics give way to smooth, plummy, licorice-infused flavors on the palate.\u00a0 It finishes with, big, dusty tannins.\u00a0 This really needs lots of time, preferably at least five years.\u00a0 But there is no denying that the quality is there.\u00a0 WB 92.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

While it is too early to tell, I would venture a guess that the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve<\/strong> will eventually reach greater heights than its 2005 brother.\u00a0 A dark, brooding nose is presently dominated by blackcurrants and a hint of lavender.\u00a0 On the palate, this is a serious, dark, brooding wine filled with licorice, minerals and spices.\u00a0 Serious tannin exists on the long finish.\u00a0 This is already excellent, but should really be cellared for a few years to allow for harmonious coalescence of the vinous components.\u00a0 WB 92+.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

Deep ruby-red, the 2007 Chabot Cabernet<\/strong> is lighter in color than the preceding Private Reserve Cabernets.\u00a0 Dominated by black raspberries, plums, and licorice, this wine is very fruit forward, displaying all it\u2019s got in the first few seconds.\u00a0 A perfume-like nose that falls off rapidly thereafter, with a rather tannin-infused clipped finish that is a touch less refined in comparison to the flagship Private Reserves.\u00a0 WB 89.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

The 2007 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon<\/strong> is dominated by blueberry and raspberry liqueur aromas.\u00a0 Medium-bodied, with black cherry and underbrush on the palate, the wine finishes with dusty tannins and a lingering note of spice.\u00a0 A solid Cabernet, yet one might expect more Howell Mountain fruit.\u00a0 WB 90.<\/strong><\/em>
\n<\/em><\/strong>
\nUnfortunately, the 2002 Port<\/strong> was very difficult to evaluate.\u00a0 Overtly alcoholic on the nose and cloying in the mouth, this is not my cup of tea.\u00a0 Perhaps additional aging time or a cooler serving temperature will ameliorate the wine. WB 87.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

A Sauternes-style wine, the 2006 Nightingale<\/strong> is a blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc.\u00a0 Heavy on the apricot and spiced pears on the nose, the wine is dense on the palate, with fruit cocktail, mango, and marmalade flavors coming through.\u00a0 The problem is that there isn\u2019t enough acidity to buffer all of the considerable sweetness on the palate.\u00a0 As a result, the wine just isn\u2019t as refreshing as it ought to be when compared to dessert wines from colder regions like the Loire.\u00a0 WB 86<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n

UPCOMING EVENTS OF INTEREST <\/strong>Pinot Days Southern California (www.pinotdays.com) will return to Barker Hangar for its second year on January 15, 2011 and will feature
\nSerious wines and serious fun:\u00a0 Over 90 wineries will pour more than 300 wines and the winemakers will share their stories.<\/p>\n

Although the wines are highly acclaimed and sophisticated, Pinot Days is not a wine-word slinging, ascot-wearing wine tasting event; rather, It\u2019s decidedly fun.\u00a0 The winemakers are inviting and animated.\u00a0 (No doubt some of them, having spent the early hours amid the grapes, will show up with a little vineyard dirt on their jeans.)\u00a0\u00a0 The high quality and wide diversity of these wines, coupled with the passion and accessibility of the producers, make Pinot Days a very unique, invigorating wine tasting experience that will make an ardent Pinotphile of you if you are not one already.\u00a0 So step into your casual So Cal style and join us for a wonderful day of exquisite, hand-crafted wines and absolutely enchanting pinot people.\u00a0 Last year\u2019s inaugural event was a sell out; the Los Angeles crowd fell for pinot and its
\nproducers, and we anticipate an even greater showing this year.\u00a0 For tickets, go to<\/strong> www.pinotdays.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Also, the most comprehensive tasting of the new releases from Bordeaux will be at the Barker Hanger in Santa Monica, CA on January 22, 2011<\/strong><\/p>\n

Union des Grands Crus Bordeaux Tasting<\/strong><\/p>\n

Date: Saturday January 22nd, 2011<\/strong>
\nTime: 3-6pm<\/strong>
\nLocation: The Barker Hanger <\/strong>
\n(see map)<\/strong>
\n3021 Airport Avenue #203, <\/strong>
\nSanta Monica<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n

For tickets, go to:<\/strong>
\nhttp:\/\/www.wallywine.com\/p-68599-union-des-grands-crus-bordeaux-tasting-sat-jan-22-2011.aspx<\/p>\n

MEET THE WORLD’S GREATEST WINEMAKERS AND CHATEAUX OWNERS<\/strong><\/p>\n

BE AMONG THE FIRST TO TASTE THE 2008 BORDEAUX!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Wally’s has the honor once again of welcoming over 100 of Bordeaux’s greatest Chateaux owners and winemakers to Los Angeles for the incomparable Union des Grands Crus tasting. The growing popularity of this unique event has prompted us to stage this year’s edition at the Barker Hangar in Santa Monica, which will allow you ample room to navigate your way through the hundreds of wines being poured. This tasting is an unrivaled opportunity for you to explore the very best Bordeaux has to offer at a fraction
\nof the cost of a single bottle of Grand Cru!<\/p>\n

Current list of participating Chateaux<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ch\u00e2teau de Chantegrive, Ch\u00e2teau Bouscaut, Ch\u00e2teau Carbonnieux
\nDomaine de Chevalier, Domaine de Chevalier,Ch\u00e2teau de Fieuzal
\nCh\u00e2teau Haut – Bailly, Ch\u00e2teau Haut – Bergey, Ch\u00e2teau Larrivet – Haut – Brion
\nCh\u00e2teau Latour – Martillac, Ch\u00e2teau Malartic – Lagravi\u00e8re, Ch\u00e2teau Olivier
\nCh\u00e2teaux Pape Cl\u00e9ment et La Tour Carnet, Ch\u00e2teau Smith Haut-Lafitte
\nCh\u00e2teau Smith Haut-Lafitte, Ch\u00e2teau Ang\u00e9lus, Ch\u00e2teau Beau – S\u00e9jour B\u00e9cot
\nCh\u00e2teaux Canon et Rauzan – S\u00e9gla, Ch\u00e2teau Canon – La – Gaffeli\u00e8re
\nCh\u00e2teau Figeac, Clos Fourtet et Ch\u00e2teau Poujeaux, Ch\u00e2teau Franc – Mayne
\nCh\u00e2teau Franc – Mayne, Ch\u00e2teau Grand – Mayne, Ch\u00e2teau La Couspaude
\nCh\u00e2teau La Dominique, Ch\u00e2teau La Gaffeli\u00e8re
\nCh\u00e2teaux Berliquet, Larcis Ducasse et Pavie – Macquin
\nCh\u00e2teaux Larcis Ducasse, Ch\u00e2teau Larmande
\nCh\u00e2teau Troplong Mondot, Ch\u00e2teaux Batailley, Lynch – Moussas et Trottevieille
\nCh\u00e2teau Beauregard, Ch\u00e2teau Clinet, Ch\u00e2teau Gazin
\nCh\u00e2teau La Cabanne, Ch\u00e2teau La Conseillante, Ch\u00e2teau Clarke
\nCh\u00e2teau Fourcas Hosten, Ch\u00e2teaux Chasse – Spleen et de Camensac
\nCh\u00e2teau Poujeaux, Ch\u00e2teaux Beaumont et Beychevelle
\nCh\u00e2teau Cantemerle, Ch\u00e2teau Citran
\nCh\u00e2teau La Lagune, Ch\u00e2teaux La Tour Carnet et Pape Cl\u00e9ment
\nCh\u00e2teau Greysac, Ch\u00e2teau La Tour de By
\nCh\u00e2teau Brane-Cantenac, Ch\u00e2teau Dauzac
\nCh\u00e2teaux Giscours et du Tertre, Ch\u00e2teau Durfort Vivens
\nCh\u00e2teau Kirwan, Ch\u00e2teau Labegorce
\nCh\u00e2teau Lascombes, Ch\u00e2teau Malescot Saint-Exup\u00e9ry
\nCh\u00e2teau Malescot Saint-Exup\u00e9ry, Ch\u00e2teau Marquis de Terme
\nCh\u00e2teau Prieur\u00e9 – Lichine, Ch\u00e2teaux Canon et Rauzan – Segla
\nCh\u00e2teau Branaire – Ducru, Ch\u00e2teau Gruaud Larose
\nCh\u00e2teau Lagrange, Ch\u00e2teaux Langoa Barton et L\u00e9oville Barton
\nCh\u00e2teau L\u00e9oville Poyferr\u00e9, Ch\u00e2teau Saint – Pierre
\nCh\u00e2teau Talbot, Ch\u00e2teau Clerc Milon
\nCh\u00e2teau d\u2019Armailhac, Ch\u00e2teaux de Rayne Vigneau et Grand – Puy – Ducasse
\nCh\u00e2teaux Ferri\u00e8re et Haut – Bages Lib\u00e9ral, Ch\u00e2teaux Lynch – Bages et Ormes de Pez
\nCh\u00e2teau Pichon – Longueville,
\nCh\u00e2teaux Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande et de Pez
\nCh\u00e2teau Cos Labory, Ch\u00e2teau Lafon – Rochet
\nCh\u00e2teau Ph\u00e9lan S\u00e9gur, Ch\u00e2teau Climens
\nCh\u00e2teau Coutet, Ch\u00e2teau Coutet, Ch\u00e2teau Coutet
\nCh\u00e2teau de Fargues, Ch\u00e2teaux de Rayne Vigneau et Grand – Puy – Ducasse
\nCh\u00e2teau Doisy – Da\u00ebne, Ch\u00e2teau Guiraud
\nCh\u00e2teau La Tour Blanche, Ch\u00e2teau Lafaurie-Peyraguey
\nCh\u00e2teau Sigalas – Rabaud, Ch\u00e2teau Suduiraut<\/p>\n

AGING WINES, WHY BOTHER?<\/strong>
\nAgeability is a complicated and sometimes controversial notion that some wines taste better after some time spent in a cool and dark cellar.\u00a0 Proponents of ageability argue that age-worthy wines develop exquisite aromas and mellower, smoother textures after a few years in bottle.\u00a0 Some collectors go to extreme lengths in pursuit of these elusive characteristics, frequently aging wines from acclaimed vintages for years, and sometimes decades, hoping that the wines acquire some of these ethereal characteristics that make mature wines so alluring.<\/p>\n

So, what makes a wine ageable?\u00a0 This is a hotly debated topic in wine circles.\u00a0 Unfortunately, there is no simple answer, and no one-size-fits-all formula that can be used to determine whether a wine will benefit from aging.\u00a0 However, long-lived wines do share some common characteristics.\u00a0 First, the ageable wines frequently have lots of fruit or dry extract in industry parlance.\u00a0 Whether the wine is sweet or dry, cellarable wines need to have lots of dry extract in order to age years or even decades.\u00a0 Freshly bottled wines are typically very fruity; yet long-term cellaring causes wines to steadily lose fruit.\u00a0 Wine enthusiasts and collectors who cellar bottles understand that what mature wines lose in youthful exuberance, they gain in texture, seamlessness and complexity.<\/p>\n

Second, ageable wines have typically high acidity and\/or tannin.\u00a0 Sound acidity is of special importance for the aging of white wines, as they are normally devoid of tannin that is present in some of the more robust red grape varietals.\u00a0 Dry red wines primarily based on cabernet, merlot, syrah and (to a lesser extent) pinot noir typically contain a good amount of tannin, which helps in graceful aging of those varietals.\u00a0 The mechanism by which tannin and acid aid in aging is poorly understood, yet those two components are often a good predictor of age-worthiness of wine.<\/p>\n

Finally, sulfate level is important, especially in dry white wine, as it acts as an antioxidant.\u00a0 Oxidation of wine is typically detrimental to wine, and prolonged oxidation turns wine into vinegar.\u00a0 Sulfates remove any free oxygen in wine and retard or prevent oxidation from taking place.\u00a0 Wines low in sulfates should not be aged for any extended period of time, as the risk of oxidation is too great.\u00a0 Some wines have so much sulfur added to them by winemakers that upon opening they may reek of rotten eggs!\u00a0 One way to combat elevated sulfur levels in young wine is to either oxygenate it by decanting, or to immerse a small copper fragment (or a clean penny!) for a few seconds.\u00a0 The latter binds up much of the dissolved sulfur, thereby allowing the fruit to shine through.<\/p>\n

Some of the most ageable wine in the world is produced in and around Bordeaux, France.\u00a0 This fascinating and historical wine-making region is explored in greater detail below..<\/p>\n

SHOULD YOU EVALUATE WINE AND BEER WITH FOOD OR WITHOUT?
\nguest writer\u2026Les Short<\/strong>
\n<\/strong>Is it important to taste wine with food, or vice versa? No, but note this, our pallet is enhanced by\u00a0multiple\u00a0flavors. With that being said, when pairing different flavors (an assortment of cheeses, for instance), with a particular varietal (syrah), both the cheese and the wine seam to take on a difference flavor, nose for the wine, and more distinct flavors for the cheese.<\/p>\n

Wine on it’s own, when comparing type to type (cabs to cabs, etc), you get an appreciation for region, climate, residual,\u00a0tannins, and so forth. The same can be said for cheese, such as different\u00a0cheddars, the sharpness, the aging, and texture.<\/p>\n

All great chefs seem to be of one mind, finding what works well together by\u00a0marrying\u00a0foods and wines to be in harmony with each other, not to cause conflict and disorder.<\/p>\n

Remember to find your way through your nose and your stomach,\u00a0always\u00a0smell and taste, and enjoy.<\/p>\n

Until next time.
\nOne Foodie\u00a0aka Les Short<\/p>\n

Editorial Response:<\/em><\/p>\n

We all have differences of opinion, I as a taster, disagree with Mr. Short. When I am trying to evaluate a specific beverage, I prefer to evaluate without the influences of extraneous flavors. By introducing different outside flavors, obviously you can judge their compatibility and interaction with their paired foods, but it is hard to dissect the food from wine since they can play off each other and interact with each other. <\/em><\/p>\n

The beauty of cooking and preparing food is that it can be a collage of flavors which play off of and interact with the wine\/beer that is consumed at that time; the combination broadens and adds complexity to the wine\/beer and food experience. But when finding out what ingredients you are starting with, i.e. what the beverage tastes like on its own, and what the food tastes like on its own, you can then prepare a better marriage of flavor when later uniting them.<\/em><\/p>\n

Thanks you Mr. Short for your submission.<\/em><\/p>\n

We accept submissions, please contact Editor Peter Ronen wineandbeereditor@aol.com <\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Read Pass Articles <\/a><\/strong>
\nClic<\/a><\/p>\n

A TOUR UP THE COAST:
\n<\/em><\/strong>In mid-November 2009, my friend and I visited a number of wineries in Central Coast, Napa and Sonoma.\u00a0 We began our trip with a stopover at the Rosenthal Vineyards in Malibu. We then made our way north to the Central Coast region, where we visited numerous wineries including Jonata, L’Aventure, Tolo, Foxen, and Tablas Creek.\u00a0 In Napa, we went to HDV, Alpha Omega, Merryvale, Montelena, Beringer, Arkenstone and EMH Black Cat.\u00a0 Finally, we made a brief sojourn into Sonoma, dropping in for a visit at Stonestreet and Matanzas Creek.<\/p>\n

Here are some of the highlights. Starting with Malibu and going up the Coast:<\/p>\n

Rosenthal.<\/strong> Hidden in a small tasting room about 15 miles from Santa Monica, near Malibu Seafood, Rosenthal Malibu wines quietly make interesting Cabs, Merlots, Bordeaux Blends, and several whites from their Estate Vineyards located high in the hillsides of the bucolic enclave of Malibu. Aside from recent vintages (2005-2007) which are very good, they are also pouring 00, 01, and 02 Merlots and Cabs for tastings in the tasting room. Those older vintages are just peaking, indicating that the younger vintages could really benefit from a few years of bottle age. Of the older vintages, the two standouts are the 2000 Merlot and the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon.\u00a0 The former tastes like an older Merlot-based Bordeaux with very good complex flavors of plum and mocha.\u00a0 Well-developed secondary aromas of earth, smoke and tobacco are quite enticing.\u00a0 The wine is best appreciated about 30 minutes to 2 hrs after opening, and will likely last a few more years.\u00a0 But with such a seductive flavor profile, why wait? The 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon is also at peak, with black raspberry flavors gradually giving way to some soft tannin on the finish.\u00a0 Like the 2000 Merlot, the wine is at peak and is best enjoyed over the next few years.\u00a0 Best of all, neither wine costs an arm and a leg.\u00a0 Amazingly, the 2000 Merlot could be had for as little at $12\/bottle with a six-pack purchase!\u00a0 With the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon priced in the low 20\u2019s and later vintage reds generally priced in the mid $30\u2019s\/bottle, Rosenthal wines represent a serious bargain.\u00a0 Where else can you get a 9-10 year old Cabernet or Merlot aged in quality French oak for less than the price of a dinner entr\u00e9e? It is definitely worth a stop.<\/p>\n

Jonata<\/strong>.\u00a0 We tasted through 20+ barrel samples of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Syrah with winemaker Matt Dees.\u00a0 We tasted different lots of 2009 Pinot Noir from different vineyards that will presumably be blended together into one or two different wines.\u00a0 All of the 2009 Pinots, some of which were in wood for only a few weeks, have dark colors, very extracted, yet somehow still elegant — a far cry from the typical earthy Cote d’Or Burgundies, or even most CA Pinots that we’ve sampled over the years.\u00a0 As an experiment, they are doing some lots with whole cluster fermentation, which adds good structure to the wines.\u00a0 The final blend should be terrific if these barrel samples are indicative.\u00a0 This should be a broad-scaled Pinot with good acidity and complexity.<\/p>\n

We also tasted 2007-2009 Syrah.\u00a0 All three have a dark purple color, nearly opaque.\u00a0 The 2009 was very primary and reduced, with great material and already tell-tale aromas of bacon fat and floral notes.\u00a0 Matt says the 2009 will be as good as or better than 2007 version.\u00a0 The 2008 Syrah was further along the development, with more serious tannins than the 2009, but slightly lower density.\u00a0 The 2007 Syrah was mind-bogglingly good.\u00a0 Like the 2009, but at this juncture a more complete wine.\u00a0 One of the top 2-3 Syrah I’ve tasted on this trip.<\/p>\n

We also tasted the 07 and 08 Desafio, a Bordeaux blend.\u00a0 All these wines were very dark in color and possessed lots of stuffing, but I would give the edge to the 07 as the superior vintage here.\u00a0 Lots of typical blackberry fruit, good acidity, and exceptional fruit density and balance.\u00a0 It needs to be cellared for considerable time, as the tannins are strong on the finish.<\/p>\n

The Cab Franc is my favorite wine of the lineup.\u00a0 We tasted the 08 and 07, and again I consider the 07 to be the better vintage.\u00a0 With exceptional floral aromas, blackberry and licorice-like fruit on the nose, incredible fruit density on the palate with a 45-second long finish.\u00a0 This is profound!<\/p>\n

Also sampled a 2007 100% Petit Verdot.\u00a0 Honestly, I don’t know what to make of this bottling.\u00a0 The color is that of used motor oil — I couldn’t see through the bottom of the stem when it was filled with less than 1 ounce of wine!\u00a0 Anyway, this was a monster on the palate, very dense fruit, skull-numbing tannins yet no herbaciousness that one often associates with this varietal.\u00a0 I don’t think I could drink more than a glass of this at one sitting. While a monument to superior winemaking, it pushes the envelope so far out that one has to wonder what is the point behind this concoction\u2026<\/p>\n

L’Aventure<\/strong>.\u00a0 Met with Michael the GM (I forget his last name) for an hour, and with winemaker Stephan Asseo. This is a beautiful property, very picturesque and seemingly isolated even though it is only minutes by car from Paso Robles.\u00a0 We tasted through the entire 07 lineup plus a couple of older reds.\u00a0 Outside of a Roussanne\/Viognier blend that I didn’t care for, the wines were uniformly fantastic!\u00a0 My favorite was the Estate Cuvee, a blend of Syrah, Cab and Petit Verdot.\u00a0 Dark in color, this is at present dominated by the Syrah and Petit Verdot aromas.\u00a0 Very high quality winemaking here — round tannins with a long finish and barely a trace of oak.\u00a0 I told Stephan that his earlier wines, especially the 03’s, were quite oaky on release, and I asked him if he had dialed down the oak.\u00a0 He said, no, but that the wines have much more fruit now as the vines are more mature (most were only planted 7-11 years ago!) and he has drastically decreased the amount of purchased fruit that he uses in his wine now as compared to a few years ago.\u00a0 I recall him mentioning that in the near future he will only use estate fruit for all of the wines.\u00a0 There is no doubt in my mind that this winery will be one of the reference points of what can be done with Rhone varietals in the Central Coast \u2013 the wines are that good.\u00a0 Oh, and they\u2019re completely biodynamic as well…<\/p>\n

Tablas Creek.<\/strong> This modern winery tucked into a quiet corner east of Paso Robles has been making wines of some renown for a quite a while.\u00a0 The Esprit de Beaucastel, a blend of predominantly Mouvedre, Grenache and Syrah is the star of the house.\u00a0 The 2007 vintage Esprit is the best one yet.\u00a0 Powerful aromatics of smoked herbs and blackberries give way to a very dense, fruity elixir that is a pleasure to taste.\u00a0 Approachable now, this will be better with a couple of years of bottle age.\u00a0 In comparison with the 2007, the 2006 Esprit comes off as a bit one dimensional and simple. \u00a0The wine possesses adequate fruit density and good length on the palate, and could be consumed now.\u00a0 Frankly, a better value for the money is the 2007 Cotes de Tablas, a second label of sorts for the 2007 Esprit.\u00a0 Think of it as \u201cEsprit-Lite\u201d, and its high quality is a testament to the phenomenal materials that Mother Nature bestowed on the Central Coast region in 2007.<\/p>\n

Tolo.<\/strong> On picturesque Adelaida Road, not far from Tablas Creek, is Tolo Cellars.\u00a0 The philosophy at this winery is extended aging in old barrels, in some cases as long as 7 years.\u00a0 The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are of medium weight, varietally correct if a bit unexciting.\u00a0 Some herbaceous character is present, and in general the wines here are about as far removed from the prototypical super ripe Napa Cabernets as one can get.\u00a0 The 2001 Asini, which was aged >7 years in barrel, possesses aromas that have more in common with traditional Spanish Riojas from the likes of Lopez de Heredia than they do with either Zinfandel or Sangiovese, which constitute its main blend.\u00a0 Finally, a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc (2006) is quite good.\u00a0 Dried herbs on the nose, some grassiness and a strong note of petrol and cat pee is reminiscent of Scheurebe from the likes of Germany\u2019s Muller-Catoir.\u00a0 On the palate, the wine is fruity and fresh, belying its considerable residual sugar.\u00a0 Fascinating and singular wine for sure.\u00a0 Then again, so are the others at this address that is anything but run of the mill!<\/p>\n

HDV.<\/strong> We tasted with winemaker Stephane Vivier at the winery in Napa.\u00a0 They produce two Chardonnays, one being a young vine version called de la Guerre, and the Estate, which is from 22-30 year-old vines.\u00a0 For reds, they make a Bordeaux blend called Belle Cousine and a Syrah.\u00a0 All of the wines come from the Hyde vineyard, owned by Larry Hyde and Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanee Conti fame.\u00a0 Hence the HDV moniker…<\/p>\n

We tasted bottled 08 de la Guerra, 07 Estate Chardonnay, 06 Syrah and 05 Belle Cousine.\u00a0 Afterwards we tasted barrel samples of 08 Estate Chardonnay, 07 Syrah, and 06 and 07 Belle Cousine.\u00a0 De la Guerra is a good Chardonnay in its own right, but pales in comparison with the Estate Chardonnay, especially the 07 version.\u00a0 The 07 Estate Chardonnay is fantastic, and to my palate reminiscent of a top-vintage Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet from the likes of Henri Boillot or Domaine Leflaive.\u00a0 It has fantastic minerality, full body, and not a trace of wood, since Stephane hates new oak.\u00a0 And, best of all, not a hint of tropical fruit to be found anywhere, something all too common in California wines.\u00a0 The 08 Estate Chardonnay was slightly bigger, with noticeably less minerality and trace notes of pineapple — not my preferred flavor profile.\u00a0 An excellent wine in its own right, it only suffers in comparison to the fantastic 2007\u2026<\/p>\n

The HDV Syrah is a varietally correct example that is quite good in 06, and outstanding in 07.\u00a0 As in the Chardonnays, there is not a trace of oak on the nose or palate of the 07 Syrah, but rather berry and smoky aromas, and a nice long finish with considerable tannin.\u00a0 Nowhere near as extracted as the Jonata Syrah, but still excellent and will probably drink sooner.\u00a0 The 06 Syrah was similar to the 07, but a bit lighter in volume, color, and slightly less open on the nose.<\/p>\n

I did not like the 05 Belle Cousine very much.\u00a0 I thought that it had rather strong tannins, and a strange, greenish note on the rather underwhelming nose.\u00a0 The wine maybe presently closed.\u00a0 The 06 Belle Cousine was much better.\u00a0 Clearly done in an elegant style, the wine displays good typicity, is medium-bodied and has a long finish with just a trace of oak, but considerable tannin that will require some bottle age to resolve.\u00a0 If this picks up a bit of weight upon aging then it will turn into something special.<\/p>\n

Alpha Omega.<\/strong> We tasted about 8 different wines here, which spanned the gamut from nearly horrid to fantastic.\u00a0 First up was the 08 Sauv blanc which was actually quite good for a Sauv Blanc in that it had some nice simple fruit on the palate good palate-cleansing acidity.\u00a0 More importantly it didn’t overpower me with grassy aromas that are so prevalent in Sauv Blancs from NZ and the Loire.\u00a0 Next we tasted the Chardonnay, which the tasting room employee said was nearly sold out.\u00a0 Over-oaked, with low acidity, buttery and chock-full of tropical fruit, this is the exact opposite of what I look for in a Chardonnay.<\/p>\n

The reds were a different story.\u00a0 We tasted a handful of 2006 Merlots and Cabernets as well as the Proprietary Red.\u00a0 While the wines were sound, with price points of $55 – $80\/bottle they do not represent compelling value to me.\u00a0 Most of the wines were medium-bodied with moderate length on the finish, with the Proprietary Red being the best.<\/p>\n

We then tasted the Era, a Bordeaux blend that is Alpha Omega’s flagship wine.\u00a0 Boy, were we stunned at the difference!\u00a0 The 2006 Era was a great wine, medium to full-bodied, possessed a deep color, and soaring aromatics that were insanely floral, probably due to the substantial Cabernet Franc in the blend.\u00a0 It was perfectly balanced, had a long finish, and was surprisingly approachable.\u00a0 One could drink this today, or cellar it for a number of years.<\/p>\n

As good as the 06 Era was, the just released 07 was even better!\u00a0 It had
\nmore of everything — fruit\/depth, complexity and seductive aromatics, and considerable but silky tannins.\u00a0 An outstanding bottle of wine, this magical concoction was one of two best wines that I tasted on this trip.\u00a0 There is no doubt in my mind that this is a star in the making.\u00a0 Wow!<\/p>\n

Arkenstone.<\/strong> We drove up the serpentine roads of Howell Mountain early Sunday morning to meet with the owner of Arkenstone, Susan Krausz.\u00a0 We wound up tasting three wines: the 07 Sauvignon Blanc, the 06 Syrah, and the 06 Obsidian.\u00a0 This winery is spectacularly located on the upper slopes of Howell Mountain, with panoramic views of Napa Valley to Calistoga and beyond.\u00a0 If that weren’t enough, they just constructed what may be the largest man-made cave I have ever been to!\u00a0 Susan explained that there is no way that they can make $$$ on the wine, since they don’t anticipate having a production of greater than 1000 cases\/year.\u00a0 So, she and her husband decided to build a custom crush\/winemaking facility dug into the mountain.\u00a0 How cool is that?\u00a0 We’re talking a seemingly endless cave, roughly 35-40 feet tall, that is hundreds of feet in length, with at least two parallel shafts running along the main cave, all interconnected about every 50-100 feet. Words can’t do justice when explaining the enormity of this setup — you’d just have to see it for yourself.\u00a0 But, it is spectacular!\u00a0 Right now, they have about 6-7 clients making wine in there, and the place looks nearly deserted.\u00a0 I estimate that they could easily make 50,000 cases of wine\/year in there, without overcrowding.\u00a0 Amazing…<\/p>\n

Caves or no caves, ultimately it is about the wine.\u00a0 First up was the Sauvignon Blanc.\u00a0 Unlike other versions that we’ve tasted on this trip, the Sauvignon Blanc at Arkenstone was very full bodied, and in fact was very reminiscent of a top-notch white from the Pessac-Leognan region.\u00a0 Think Pape Clement Blanc or Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc.\u00a0 Except the wood is mostly integrated, so it could be drunk now, in contrast with those Bordeaux examples that need time for the toast to dissipate.<\/p>\n

The Arkenstone Syrah is made in tiny quantities (~50 cases).\u00a0 It had a strong berry and floral nose with a hint of bacon fat that to me screams Syrah.\u00a0 Deep purple in color, it was slightly lighter in color than the 07 Jonata Syrah, but darker than the 07 HDV Syrah.\u00a0 Seamless on the palate, it has a wave after wave of dark berry fruit and not a trace of oak.\u00a0 There are some serious tannins on the finish, but it is great already!<\/p>\n

The star of the tasting, and of the trip, was the 06 Obsidian, a proprietary Bordeaux blend that I believe is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon.\u00a0 A prominent lead pencil and black raspberry nose reminded me of a top vintage of Lafite-Rothschild or Ducru-Beaucaillou.\u00a0 On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, perfectly balanced, and seamless.\u00a0 A smidgeon of very high quality toast appears on the very long finish that lasts at least half a minute.\u00a0 Even more amazing is that this is the debut release, in what is considered a challenging and variable vintage!\u00a0 I was shocked at how good this was.\u00a0 For some idiotic reason, I didn’t ask Susan to sample the 07 barrels of Obsidian.\u00a0 Every other place we tasted at, we found the 07 blends to be superior to the 06.\u00a0 So, my guess that the 07 Obsidian will be other-worldly when released…<\/p>\n

EMH Black Cat.<\/strong> We visited with Merrill Lindquist at her lovely home for nearly two hours.\u00a0 She was extremely hospitable and outgoing, which made the time fly by.\u00a0 She opened the 05, 06, and 07 Black Cat, a predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon blend from her tiny vineyard in Calistoga, an hour or so in advance of our arrival.\u00a0 The 05 Black Cat was reserved, almost austere, both on the palate and nose.\u00a0 In spite of my kind objections, Merrill proceeded to open another bottle of the 05, which was more aromatically open, but still was a bit hard to grasp.\u00a0 Maybe this bottling just needs to sleep for a while?\u00a0 At the opposite side of the spectrum was the 06 Black Cat.\u00a0 It was wide open, with a huge plum-like aroma that I would have guessed blind as Merlot, not Cabernet.\u00a0 Nevertheless, the wine tasted beautifully and the tannins, while on the finish, were never obtrusive.\u00a0 This could be drunk now and might improve with some short-term cellaring.\u00a0 A step up in intensity was the 07 Black Cat.\u00a0 This was more complex, age worthy and transparent, while the 06 was more exotic and hedonistic.\u00a0 My guess is that the 07 will really benefit from several years in the cellar, at which point it would eclipse the 05.\u00a0 I enjoyed both a great deal!<\/p>\n

Foxen.<\/strong> On the way up the coast Foxen was an interesting stop over, while a bit off the beaten path, about half an hour off of the main highway (101N) it boasts not one but two tasting rooms. A rustic facility in what seems to be an old barn and a new, modern, well appointed facility just a few hundred feet down the road. With offerings in the $30-$60 category they offer more basic central coast pinots, and higher end ones such as the 06 Bien Nacido Vineyard, Block 8 with barnyard notes, med-full body, earthy tones in addition to nice fruit. Also notable is the 07 late harvest Chenin Blanc from the Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard which has great acidity to balance the 14% residual sugar, the acidity really cuts the sugar back.<\/p>\n

Matanzas Creek<\/strong> offers another stop over point away from the Napa bustle with a notable Asian influence. Designed with care to minimize impact to the flora and natural landscape, the facility showcases a several wines in the more modest price ranges, $20-$50, which in Northern California keeps paces with a more economically oriented buyer. Of note is the 06 Jackson Park Merlot at $49.<\/p>\n

Stonestreet.<\/strong> Again away from the hustle and bustle of the main thoroughfare of Napa, Stonestreet in Healdsburg offers elegance and immense variety in terms of whites and reds. Some are widely distributed to restaurants, while others are very small lot production of 100-500 cases. Also it is hard to find 2000, 2001, 2002 rocky volcanic soil offerings normally available at a tasting room. The Black Cougar Ridge Cab Sauvignon series is definitely available there. An eye opening vertical comparison tasting plus library wines available for purchase.<\/p>\n

Independent Review of Tre Bicchieri, 2009: <\/strong>Last night, March 2, I went to an all- Italian wine tasting that took place at the Fairmont Hotel, in Santa Monica.<\/p>\n

This was an unusual event, due the fact that the vast majority of the wines did not arrive until around 6:30 P.M., only a half hour before the event ended. That said, the wines that were poured had some great interest\u00a0with regard to nose, single vineyard varietals, balance, and ability to age.<\/p>\n

I was especially impressed with some of the wines being offered up from Sicily, which is all the more notable as I have always been more of a fan of Tuscan,\u00a0Piedmontese and other wines from Italy\u2019s more northern climes.<\/p>\n

Northern climate wines tend to have more acidity and better balance of fruit to acidity, which typically make them more food friendly, and appetite-inducing. Sicilian grapes routinely endure very hot summertime temper-atures, which makes achiev-ing adequate acidity levels very challenging for the winemakers. Yet some of the Sicilians in today\u2019s tasting were able to do just that and achieve good acidity with decent body and structure.<\/p>\n

All in all, most wines were balanced on the palate and exhibited considerable\u00a0 terroir- driven complexity and minerality. I only have one main\u00a0criticism\u00a0of the Tre Bicchieri tasting format. The tasting emphasized the producer at the expense of varietal.\u00a0 It would have been far more educational to taste Barolos\/Barberescos in one group, for example, rather than having to taste through entire lineups of producers that may include Dolcettos and even Chardonnays together with Nebbiolo-based varietals.<\/p>\n

With that said, I will not be\u00a0deterred\u00a0from future Tre Bicchieri tastings I will walk around, get an overview of what is being featured, then get a plan of attack.<\/p>\n

Until next time, uncork, pour, and drink with enjoyment and a smile.<\/p>\n

Les Short<\/p>\n

Editorial Response:<\/em><\/p>\n

The layout of the tasting room sometimes leaves much to be desired. One would prefer to have the same varietal from the same region side by side for comparison purposes; however, one needs to consider the staff requirement and other feasibility issues. So typically one producer would showcase all of his\/her wines on the same table without splitting them up. If all Barberas were together, and all Barbarescos were together, yes it would be easier to compare but harder to organize, perhaps better for an educational setting not for a producer-by-producer setting. <\/em><\/p>\n

Thank you again Mr. Short for your submission.<\/em><\/p>\n

March 2, 2009-Gambero Rosso\/Tre Bicchieri Wine Tasting held in Los Angeles<\/strong>
\nAlthough Gambero Rosso has been to Los Angeles before, this year was the first to showcase the Tre Bicchieri award winners. Tre Bicchieri in Italian means three glasses, or the highest award given. Of over 18,000 wines (from 2,250 wineries) reviewed, only 339 were bestowed the prestigious Tre Bicchieri award. Piedmont led the way with 71 winners, followed by Tuscany with 49, Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia with 31, Alto Adige with 26, Sicily with 17, Campania with 16, with the remaining balance coming from Lombardy, Marche, Abruzzo, Sardinia, Emilia Romagna, Trentino, Umbria, Puglia, Valle d\u2019Aosta, Basilicata, Calabria, Lazio, Liguria and Molise in decending order.<\/p>\n

For 2009 the some of the special awards are: Winery of the Year — Fattoria di Felsina;
\nRed of the Year — Barbaresco Asili Reserva \u201804 by Bruno Giacosa; White of the Year — Valle d\u2019Aosta Chardonnay Cuvee Bois by Les Cretes;
\nSparkling of the Year — Alto Adige Metodo Classico Hausmannhof Reserva \u201997 by Haderburg; Sweet wine of the year — Moscato Passito \u201807 Bruno Giacosa<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, this year\u2019s event started off on a sour note. More than two-thirds of the wines were delayed en route to Los Angeles as a result of some poor organizational planning and uncooperative weather. When the wines did finally arrive \u2013 within the last half-hour of the event — many were left unopened in shipping boxes, undoubtedly to be sacrificed at the next stop of the Tre Bicchieri tour.\u00a0 That said, there were still 30+ wineries to taste, representing about 90 wines. These producers that brought their wine with them saved the day.<\/p>\n

The wine\u2014<\/em>Italians are known for having the most diversified group of wines in the world. In Roman times, whenever there was a Roman Legion stationed in an Italian town, they planted grapes, and made wine. Italian towns are typically isolated from each other, due to geographic and elevation changes, so these single town plantings eventually took on their own characteristics, due to terroir, mutation, adaptation to climate conditions, and the like. According to some Italian wine experts, there are over 2000 identifiable different varietals in Italy. So far only several hundred have been scientifically catalogued.<\/p>\n

With that in mind, the tasting was a success. Simply because of the variety and complexity of flavors that Italy has to offer. Some of the Tre Bicchieri wines came from Alto Adige, just south of the Austrian border. An example of a white would be the 2005 Sauvignon from Sanct Valentin part of the St. Michael- Eppan cong-lomerate<\/em>, a white with rich body, good acidity, decent minerality showing unusual but engaging flavors of fig and elder blossom. It pays homage to the Austrian whites to the North, while engaging the local terroir adding to its complexity.
\nEven with only a few years in bottle there were some wines showing active barnyard noses, such as the Feudi di San Gregorio Campanaro, a young wine with a mature engaging nose.<\/p>\n

Live acidity, delicate tannins, lush fruit, and reasonable price points of $30-70 USD per bottle make many of these Tre Bicchieri wines interesting alternatives to high priced Napa or Bordeaux wines.<\/p>\n

To Decant or Not to Decant <\/strong>
\nThat is the Question,
\n<\/strong>The purpose of decanting, for wines in the plateau of maturity, is to\u00a0separate\u00a0out the frequently bitter sediment away from the wine itself.\u00a0 That way, the wine can be more readily enjoyed without the accompanying bitter flavors and unsightly cloudi- ness.\u00a0 In some cases, the additional exposure to air (oxygen) caused by decanting is beneficial as well, as it can help some unpleasant aromas trapped by years of bottle aging to escape more quickly, thereby bringing to the forefront those ethereal scents that only mature wines possess.<\/p>\n

Young wines also benefit from decanting, but for a different reason.\u00a0 Whereas the primary motivation to decant old (mature) wines is to remove the sediment, young wines frequently have little in the way of sediment but often have lots of tannin (reds) and sulfur (white).\u00a0 Tannins can make young reds taste very drying, and sometimes even astringent.\u00a0 Decanting of young, robust red wines helps oxygenate the wine, which frequently brings the fruit component to the foreground and helps relegate tannins to<\/p>\n

the background.\u00a0 The result is, hopefully, a wine that while young is imminently more drinkable and enjoy-able.<\/p>\n

Recent-vintage white wines may need to be decanted if, upon opening, there is a noticeable sulfur\/ matchstick smell.\u00a0 These aromas are quite frequent in Chard- onnays and commonly also in German Rieslings, as many producers add sulfur as a \u201cpreservative\u201d to wine to guard it from premature oxidation.\u00a0 In fact, practically any well-made young white stands to benefit from decanting, as the additional exposure to oxygen can help bring the fruit forward and reduce unpleasant aromas.<\/p>\n

How Long to Decant?<\/p>\n

For mature reds, decanting to remove sediment should be done immediately prior to consumption.\u00a0 While some older reds could benefit from a longer exposure to oxygen, it is better to err on the side of caution and decant no more than 30 minutes prior to consumption.\u00a0 Some old wines can fade away quickly, and it is always better to catch the wine while it is still alive and not oxidized.<\/p>\n

For young reds, decanting times and strategies vary widely.\u00a0 For example, some very tannic Bordeaux and California Cabernets may need to be decanted as many as 24 hours in advance!\u00a0 Ordinarily, a 2 to 4-hour decanting time is sufficient for most well made reds from robust varietals such as Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, etc.<\/p>\n

For young whites, a 30-minute to 1-hour decanting time is usually sufficient.\u00a0 There are some exceptions, notably highly sulfured Riesling or high acid Premier- or Grand Cru-level Chablis, that frequently require longer exposure to air, but most of the time an hour\u2019s worth of air in a decanter is more than sufficient.<\/p>\n

Until next time, uncork, “DECANT”, pour, and drink with enjoyment and a smile.<\/p>\n

Les Short<\/p>\n

Thank you Mr. Short for your submission.<\/em><\/p>\n

WHAT ARE DESSERT WINES?<\/strong>
\nDessert wines, which constitute a relatively small percentage of the overall wine market, are generally white and somewhat thicker in density compared to the non-dessert variety. But what really makes dessert wines stand out in oceans of dry (non-sweet) bottlings is their considerable percentage of sugar, which can range from a low of a couple percent sugar all the way up to saturation, where a crystallized sugar precipitate may clearly be visible at the bottom of the bottle. These nectar-like versions of dessert wines may reach an overall sugar content of fifteen to twenty-five percent are relatively uncommon. Strong sweetness can also result from a previously medium sweet dessert wine…such as 10 to 12 percent sugar…which loses water due to evaporation, thereby causing the percentage of sugar to increase relative to remaining liquid. Percentage sugar is high in dessert wines for one of several reasons: (1) late harvest which results in riper fruit containing lots of sugar, (2) from botrytis which is also known as noble rot — a mold whose growth on grape skins results in water loss and increased sugar concentration, or (3) incomplete alcoholic fermentation that yields wines whose hallmark is clearly perceptible sweetness from unfermented residual sugar coupled with low alcohol.<\/p>\n

Many of the world\u2019s most cherished dessert wines are produced from botrytized grapes.\u00a0 Wines containing grapes affected by botrytis typically exhibit raisin-like flavors that range from barely detectable to incredibly strong.\u00a0 Production of these late-harvest wines is a difficult and risky process since the noble rot can quickly overwhelm grapes stripping them of flavors and rendering them useless for winemaking.\u00a0 Typically, grapes affected by noble rot need to be harvested on a cluster-to-cluster (and sometimes grape-by-grape) basis, frequently requiring multiple passages through the vineyard by harvesters.\u00a0 As a result, labor costs required to produce a quality botrytis-affected sweet wine are considerably higher than those for dry red or white wines.\u00a0 To control the infection (and to reduce costs), sometimes the noble rot is applied to the grapes after harvest, when grapes are stored on trays to dry.<\/p>\n

Most dessert wines are best enjoyed slightly chilled in a petite wine glass (dessert wine glass) with fruit or pastry, perhaps some mild-flavored cheese, but perhaps even better alone in front of a warming fireplace with that special someone!<\/p>\n

What makes a Bordeaux a Bordeaux?
\n<\/strong>
\nObviously its A. O. C. Accreditation for its official appellation\/territorial designation but observationally its due to acidity, terroir,\u00a0barrel management\/ exposure,\u00a0fruit\/berry content, tannin,\u00a0and storage conditions even cork material. To summarize each element’s contribution to the final product: acidity allows some things to evolve\/change but it also slows some change…specifically higher amounts of acidity seem to slow maturation of wine, terroir can slow oxidization of wine by adding minerality or trace chemicals that stabilize or slow change, barrel management entails choice of wood- i.e. French oak vs.\u00a0 American oak.\u00a0American oak and age of wood–yielding greater density of wood with older wood and with French oak (colder climate slower tighter growth)…. tighter wood grain seems to infuse wines with tannins that last longer in the battle against oxidization, the exposure of wine to barrels of different newness levels also adds tannin diversity and therefore to a variety of tannins the wine can feed upon while aging, fruit density–most Bordeaux have relatively high fruit (grape) density…which also gives substance for the wine\/yeast to feed upon, tannin not only comes from barrel exposure it also comes from the seeds, skin, and pulp of the grape give the wine things to feed upon, storage conditions i.e. Temp and humidity influence the rate at which the yeast feeds on the wine.<\/p>\n

REVIEW OF UGC 2009 LOS ANGELES EVENT<\/strong>
\nThe 2009 Union des Grande Cru is held in several cities typically New York, Chicago, Dallas, and San Francisco or Los Angeles. (It usually alternates between LA and SF each year). However this year there were events in both, LA had a consumer tasting while SF had a trade tasting. This year the venerable 2005 Bordeaux were tasted alongside the soon to be released 2006. Wonderful juxtaposition. The powerful, concentrated, and dense 2005 vintage compared to the silky yet decently structured 2006 vintage. I believe the 2006 reds offer an earlier accessible vintage, which serves a very viable purpose because it gives the Bordeaux drinker an available vintage to drink while the 05 is maturing. Interestingly the 2005s are actually approachable now with some decanting time. Its difficult to say if the 04 or the 06 is a bigger vintage…probably the growing climate of 06 was closer to ideal. The density of 06 is probably a bit greater but chateux to chateaux variation should be considered since the 06 and 04 are similar. Both the 04 and 06 stand in allegiance and at attention to the 05. While the reds seemed more of a personal preference of accessibility of the 06 while ageability of 05 makes one ponder the aromas displayed by 20-40 years of proper aging, the sauternes seem to be more exciting and botrytis -like in 06 versions. Purchasing Bordeaux for your cellar begs the question of your potential consumption window. The 05’s can easily hold for 20 to 30 years quite possibly 40 or even more, not everyone is prepared to give in to that time commitment. In that case the smaller\/less dense vintages start to become inviting due to their shorter time horizons.<\/p>\n

WHY DO SOME BORDEAUX COST SO MUCH?
\n<\/strong>The cost of Bordeaux is a thought-provoking\u00a0question in these economically unsettling times. Top Bordeaux meaning La Tour, Lafite-Rothschild, and Haut Brion which are in the $400-700 US dollar range per bottle are very consistently the best or among the best labels of any particular Bordeaux vintage. Price is always or almost always a product of demand in an efficient market. The wine market is not always efficient, since all products are not necessarily always presented to all buyers in the course of the wine’s lifetime.<\/p>\n

However, the\u00a0demand for these high-end labels exceeds demand currently and also in the past. The number of high-end clients, i.e. the number of millionaires who buy wine\u00a0keeps growing even though times are tight. In this niche market, even though the price of admission is high, the buyer (with proper storage conditions) of the 2005 vintage for instance has up to 45 years to sell the investment or probably 25 years to drink (between age 20 and 45)….so a very long window to sell into a profitable market; Quite an amazing window for sale or consumption. Remarkably there still are many bottles of 2005 for retail sale and many of those are not at a high price premium. Interestingly enough, to validate the 2005 prices the 2006, which is not as memorable of a year, Bordeaux has prices set almost as high (within 25 percent) of 2005–A very interesting marketing technique.<\/p>\n

We accept submissions, please contact Editor Peter Ronen<\/strong><\/p>\n

Editor@wineandbeertasting.com
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DECEMBER 2010 \u2013 CALIFORNIA TASTING With this trip up the coast of California, WineandBeerTasting.com is introducing its rating system. Scores are based on the 100-point system, initially introduced by Robert Parker in his Wine Advocate newsletter more than three decades ago, and now widely used by other leading wine publications like Wine Spectator and International […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-wine-reviews"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12,"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8\/revisions\/12"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandbeertasting.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}