Central Coast / Napa Valley– Tasting Notes December, 2012

As with previous ratings with a range, it means that either the wine was closed and not revealing itself, or that the wine was so new, as in a barrel sample, that it is really too early to pinpoint a rating.

JONATA

2009 The Hilt Chardonnay Old Guard.  Light yellow in color, the 2009 The Hilt Chardonnay offers up scents of flowers, ripe lemon and a hint of reduction.  Medium-bodied, a bit four-square at the moment, with a distinct stoniness in the mid-palate, it requires 1-2 years of cellaring prior to consumption.  WB 90.

2009 Flor de Jonata.  Light golden-colored Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend, with telltale fresh cut grass aromatics, the 2009 Flor is waxy, yet minerally in the mouth.  Finishes fairly short, with some bitter, somewhat detracting quinine-like element.  WB 89.

2009 The Hilt The Vanguard Pinot Noir.  Aromatics of flowers and red cherries transition into a medium-bodied wine with gentle grip and red raspberry-infused mid-palate.  A mix of 667/777 clones, the modern-styled Vanguard is ready to drink now.  WB 90.

2007 Jonata Todos.  A real everything-but-the kitchen-sink blend, the Syrah/Cabernet-heavy 2007 Todos boasts a nearly impenetrable red/black color.  Aromatically, the nose is dominated by bacon fat and smoke.  On the palate, minerals, cassis combined with a good degree of refinement and persistence make this wine a winner.  WB 92.

2005 Jonata Sangre.  A an inky purple, syrah-based wine, the Sangre offers up subdued notes of grilled meat, charcoal and incense.  Full-bodied on the palate, with massive tannins and good fruit concentration, it needs to be forgotten about for at least five years.  Mostly closed at present, its Cornas-like personality will eve eventually re-emerge for the patient connoisseur sometime down the road.  WB 93.

2009 Jonata El Desafio.  A deep purple/red color characterizes this Bordeaux-like blend from Jonata.  Faint aromas of cassis, red berries and licorice suggest that the wine has entered a dormant state.  The palate is characterized by a dense core of fruit, good degree of refinement and big, clamping tannins on the finish.  Like the Sangre, this will benefit from and reward 5+ years of cellaring.  WB 92+.

 

Paul Lato Wines

2011 Sierra Madre Vineyard Chardonnay “Le Souvenir”.  Flowers, citrus and stone dominate this well-crafted chardonnay from Paul Lato.  A seamless texture, medium body and a long finish make for a well-crafted wine that requires a year or two to come together.  A second sample from a Francois Frères barrel exhibited better integration and even more cut and definition. WB 92-94.

2011 Pisoni Vineyard Chardonnay “East of Eden”.  A mere 4-barrel lot, the big-bodied, minerally Chardonnay is certainly an impressive debut.  Packed with power and stoniness, yet highly refined, with a suave tactile feel and a long, cascading finish, it is reminiscent of a top-flight Corton-Charlemagne with a bit of extra oomph!  WB 93-96.

2011 Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Chardonnay “Belle du Jour”.  Light yellow.  This is yet another impressive Chardonnay from Paul Lato.  A slightly reductive note gives way to apples, white flowers and hints of Meyer lemon.  Huge-bodied and powerful, with lots of obvious minerality that permeates every nook and cranny on the long, delineated finish that is characterized by superb acidity.  Might not be better than the 2010 version, but certainly in the same league.  WB 93-95.

2011 Gold Coast Vineyard Pinot Noir “Duende”.  Light red.  A light-bodied pinot noir, with ample cherries, dried spices and minerals, the Duende has immense upfront appeal.  Finishes cleanly with moderate length and no sense of heaviness.  This one will drink well on release.  WB 90-92.

2011 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot Noir “Seabiscuit”.  Dark red.  A bouquet of fresh-cut flowers and red raspberries jumps from the glass of the 2011 Zotovich Pinot Noir.  Beautifully layered on the palate, with a mélange of red and black cherries and copious minerals that simply refuse to fade away from the long, resonant finish.  Incredible elegance and purity here. WB 93-96.

2011 Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Pinot Noir “Alegria”.  Dark garnet.  Slightly more closed aromatically than the Zotovich, Hilliard Bruce is notable for its big, and rather sweet inner core of fruit that is deftly balanced by firm acidity in a cashmere-like texture.  Finishes very long with a whiplash of flavors, but really should be cellared for several years prior to consumption.  WB 93-95.

2011 Sierra Madre Vineyard Pinot Noir “The Prospect”.  Very dark red.  Huge, nearly ostentatious aromas of roses and marinated cherries are almost overpowering.  In the mouth, a superb texture, with lots of sweet fruit, nearly over the top, yet somehow the shows enough acidity to balance things out nicely on the long and layered finish.  I suspect that with some cellar time will be really beneficial here, as the starting materials are superb.  WB 94-96.

2011 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir “Lancelot”.  Deep red.  From the very first sniff of spring flowers all the way through to the long, kaleidoscopic finish, one cannot help but think that the 2011 Lancelot personifies greatness.  With tremendous concentration, a diaphanous, caressing texture, and mind-boggling complexity that is readily apparent even at this embryonic stage, it may well be the greatest Pinot Noir that Paul Lato has yet crafted.  A true standout even in this exalted portfolio.  Grand Vin!  WB 96-98.

2011 John Sebastiano Vineyard Pinot Noir “Atticus”.  Ruby red.  Cherry predominates this rather forward, yet still rather primary Pinot Noir.  The plush mid-palate is characterized by lots of sweetness, yet the acidity is not quite as refreshing as in The Prospector.  Style-wise, this is closer to the fruitier side of the spectrum than some might prefer, yet there is no denying the winemaking here.  WB 91-93.

2011 Wenz Vineyard Pinot Noir “Popout”.  A one-time project, the purple/reddish 2011 Popout is stylistically on the opposite end of the spectrum from the 2011 Atticus.  Crunchy red currants, violets and roses give way to a medium-bodied, distinctively Burgundian Pinot Noir that is already very complex.  Finishes very long, with a lingering note of minerals.  A star in the making!  WB 94-96.

2011 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir “Suerte”.  A pink/red color, and an abundance of cherries, cranberries and hints of rose characterize the 2011 version of the Suerte, one of the highest production wines from Paul Lato.  Medium-bodied, refined, and already displaying good complexity, this is another winner. WB 93-95.

2011 Larner Vineyard Grenache “Lumiere”.  From a new oak barrel, the translucent red 2011 Grenache comes across as a delicate, Pinot Noir-like concoction.  With aromas of garrigue, incense and exotic spices, a medium body and wonderful refinement, the wine has a lot going for it.  Finishes long, with some wood notes that have yet to be absorbed.  A pretty wine that needs to be cellared for 2-3 years.  WB 93-95.

 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah “Il Padrino”.  Very dark red.  Typical Syrah aromas of bacon fat and black olives yield to a smooth-as-silk mouth feel, with copious minerals, black cherries and smoked meat making themselves present all the way to the very long finish.  This tremendous Hermitage-like Syrah will benefit from several years of cellaring. WB 94-96.

2011 Larner Vineyard Syrah “Cinematique”.  Nearly impenetrable red.  Soaring aromatics of violets, barbeque smoke and bacon fat are easy to find in the 2011 Cinematique.  Like the Il Padrino and most of the rest of Paul Lato’s lineup, the wine is seamlessly-textured, with a mélange of red and black plums, powdered stone and admirable precision and lift that continue through all the way to the nearly endless finish.  Clearly in the very upper echelon of Syrahs made in California today. WB 95-97.

 

Tablas Creek Winery

2011 Marsanne.  Faint yellow.  Slightly waxy, with hints of white flowers and ginger.  Medium-bodied, well balanced, refreshing and uncomplicated on the palate.  Will drink well for several years.  WB 90.

2009 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc.  Light yellow in color, with lanolin, lychee, and a floral note.  Medium-bodied, fairly deep on the mid-palate, with a 20+ second finish.  At once more sophisticated and polished than the Marsanne.  WB 91.

2011 Cote de Tablas Creek Blanc.  Highly translucent yellow.  Marked by considerable reduction and difficult to evaluate.  What is clear is that there is good density, underlying stone and minerality, and fine texture.  If the bottling recovers from the reductive notes, it could be better than indicated here.  WB 88+(?).

2011 Patelin de Tablas.  A dark red GSM blend composed of 29% Grenache, 52% Syrah, 18% Mourvedre and the balance Counoise and other less popular Rhone varietals, the Patelin is notable for aromas of smoked meats and hints of dark plum.  Medium-bodied, with gentle grip, this is ready to be drunk now.  WB 89.

2010 Cotes de Tablas Creek.  A step up in concentration and refinement from the Patelin, the 2010 Cotes de Tablas Creek red is another G/S/M blend that displays aromas of grilled meat, olives and a barnyard-like component.  Exhibiting good refinement, this medium-bodied wine sinuously lingers on the palate for 15 seconds before fading away.  This could be drunk now, or cellared for up to a decade.  WB 91.

2010 Counoise.  Violets, exotic spices and Zinfandel-like cotton candy aromas make up the aromatics of the 2010 Counoise.  A cherry-infused mid-palate, hints of charcoal and a fairly long spicy aftertaste contribute to the unique character of the wine.  WB 91.

2010 Mourvedre.  Very dark red, the 100% Mourvedre cuvee from Tablas Creek is nearly completely closed aromatically.  Only with vigorous swirling do the aromas of underbrush, flowers, and slight reduction can be discerned.  What it lacks in the olfactory sensations is made up for on the full body that is crammed with marinated black cherries, a good dose of minerals and spices.  This requires at least 3-4 years in the cellar prior to consumption.  WB 92.

2010 Esprit de Beaucastel Red.  Deep garnet.  Subdued nose of burning embers, grilled meat and plums.  Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, with a clear step up in refinement over the preceding wines.  Finishes very long, with mounting grip.  45% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 21% Syrah and 4% Counoise.  WB 93+.

2010 En Gobelet.  Deep ruby.  Restrained aromas of stewed cherries intermixed with incense.  Big-bodied, with clamping tannins and a long finish.  More impressive than pleasurable at present.  WB 92.

2010 Tannat.  Nearly impenetrable black.  Blackberries, licorice, subtle charcoal are all to be found, at present surrounded by a massive wall of tannin.  Finishes long, with very drying but spherical tannins.  Will require a long time for the tannins to melt away.  WB 91+.

2010 Vin de Paille “Sacrerouge”.  Amber/gold hue.  Sweet candy and hints of apricot on the nose and a palate not dissimilar from fruit compote in the mouth.  Burned sugar-like notes present as well on the long finish.  Just enough acidity to make it not cloying.  WB 92.

 

Ceritas Wines

2011 Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard.  Light yellow.  Flowers, citrus zest and gunpowder flow into a medium-bodied, refined wine with ample minerality and a long finish with great cut.  The 2011 Heintz’s cool-climate pedigree would make it an ideal ringer for a premier cru-level Puligny Montrachet from the Cote d’Or. WB 92.

2011 Chardonnay Martin Ray Vineyard.  Light gold.  Slightly reduced aromas of flowers and citrus fruits.  In the mouth the Martin Ray is slightly oily, with a bigger body than the Heintz, and has a rapier-like mineral streak that cuts a wide swath across the palate.  Excellent refinement and density make this standout wine an ideal candidate for several years of bottle aging.  WB 93+.

2011 Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard.  Bright gold.  Lemon peel, ginger, and hints of grilled nuts and matchstick jump from the glass of the 2011 Porter Bass Chardonnay.  Medium- to full-bodied, with considerable minerality and excellent refinement that lead to an exceptionally long, stone-infused finish.  Think of it as a Sonoma Coast version of a top-flight Corton-Charlemagne or Chevalier-Montrachet — it is that good!  WB 94+.

2011 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.  Violets, red cherries and exotic spices combine to form the flavor profile of the 2011 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.  This challenging vintage produced an excellent, ready to drink wine that is light on its feet, with a medium body and good persistence. WB 92.

2012 Hellenthal Vineyard Pinot Noir.  Vinified with 50% whole clusters, the 2012 Hellenthal comes across as a wine with high purity of flavor, with an undercurrent or crunchy red cherry and cranberry fruit.  Even at this early stage, it appears to be well balanced and destined for success. WB 91-93.

2012 Porter-Bass Pinot Noir.  Beautiful aromas of dried cherries soar from the glass of the 2012 Porter Bass Pinot Noir.  Medium-bodied on the palate, with gorgeous fruit purity, cashmere-like texture and impeccable balance, this one is destined for greatness.  A hugely promising inaugural vintage!  WB 93-96.

2012 Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon.  There are roughly 3 barrels of 2012 Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from 90 year-old vines in the eponymous vineyard high in the Santa Cruz mountains.  Reticent aromas of cassis give way to a medium-bodied palate with licorice, slight leafiness and minerals.  Offers good grip on the long finish.  About as far from the overdone, heavily oaked Napa cult Cabernets as one could get. WB 92-94.

 

Fairchild Wines

2009 Georges III Cabernet Sauvignon.  Very dark red.  Cassis and smoke predominate the aromatics of Larry Fairchild’s GIII Cabernet Sauvignon.  Deep and vinous, with a hefty mineral streak, but gracious and svelte at the same time.  Finishes long, with mounting but noble tannins.  A big success in this challenging vintage. WB 93+.

2009 Sigaro Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.  Deep crimson.  Lead pencil, blackberries and a complicated floral component give the Sigaro Cabernet Sauvignon a personality on all its own.  Layered and complex, earthy, with superb mouth feel and a near-regal texture push the refinement level a notch or two past its Georges III stable mate.  Impeccably balanced, and not at all heavy or overripe like some valley floor Cabernets.  Bravo! WB 96.

HDV Wines

2011 De La Guerra Chardonnay.  Pale yellow in color, the De La Guerra Chardonnay represents the young vines selection from the Hyde vineyard in Carneros.  Raised in all neutral oak, the De La Guerra displays an impressive mineral edge, a fairly deep mid-palate and a moderate length finish with bracing acidity.  An excellent North Coast Chardonnay.  WB 91.

2009 HDV Chardonnay Estate.  White flowers and some reduction notes are prevalent on the nose of the 2009 Estate.  Medium-bodied, crammed with citrus fruits, minerals and hints of green apple, the Estate is more refined, dense, and complex than the De La Guerra.  Finishes very long – at least 30 seconds – with powerful, palate-cleansing acidity.  This will repay several years of cellaring. WB 93.

2008 Californio Syrah.  Purple-tinged red.  Some olive aromas and hints of smoked meat.  On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with gently sweet, uncomplicated plum flavors that linger for about 15 seconds before fading away into oblivion.  This is very good rather than great. WB 88.

2008 Belle Cousine.  A Bordeaux blend, the ruby-red colored Belle Cousine gives up aromas of chocolate and plums.  Medium-bodied in the mouth, with excellent refinement and gently gripping tannins on the moderately intense finish.  Could use more density. WB 89.

 

Arkenstone Vineyards

2010 Sauvignon Blanc.  White flowers, freshly cut grass and a whiff of vanilla make up the aromatic profile of the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc.  It is medium- to nearly full-bodied on the palate, with remarkable depth of fruit, strong acidity and some unresolved oak that will integrate in time.  This serious Sauvignon Blanc has to be cellared for at least 2-3 years prior to consumption.  WB 92.

2008 Coliseum Block Cabernet Sauvignon.  Blackberries and vanilla dominate the aromatics here.  Full-bodied, with licorice, crushed stone and massive tannins on the long finish.  This one is for the long haul – I would recommend cellaring until 2018 before consumption.  WB 93.

2008 Obsidian.  High-toned red raspberries, exotic spices and even a hint of lead pencil on the complex aromatics.  Big-bodied and exhibiting superior refinement, the 2008 Obsidian flows seamlessly over the palate, in the process engaging the senses, never letting go all the way to the outrageously long and powerful finish.  Fantastic!  WB 95+.

2007 Obsidian.  A product of a riper vintage, the 2007 Obsidian starts off with notes of violets, cassis and chocolate.  Silky-smooth on the mid-palate, it carries its rather extroverted personality all the way to the very long finish that seemingly saturates every olfactory receptor and taste bud.  It only suffers in comparison with the 2008, which appears to have the upper hand as far as freshness and complexity go.  WB 94.

2009 Obsidian.  Very ripe, nearly jammy aromatically, with licorice, toast, and some black fruits.  While it shares textural refinement with the earlier vintages, today the 2009 Obsidian comes across as rather monolithic and a touch lighter in style.  Perhaps time will ameliorate that – wait and see.  WB 92.

 

Conn Valley Vineyards

2011 Sauvignon Blanc.  From fruit grow in Lake County, the light gold-colored Sauvignon Blanc impresses for its beeswax, lime and stony notes.  Nicely balanced, its citrus-rich medium body transitions to a finish that gently fades away after about 15 seconds.  This is ready to drink now.  WB 90.

2011 Chardonnay.  Hailing from Carneros, the 2011 Chardonnay displays some reductive notes in its aromatic profile.  Medium-bodied, with green apple, lemon custard and nary a trace of oak, enjoy this fine non-malolactic Chardonnay over the next five years.  WB 92.

2008 Pinot Noir.  Jammy red berry aromatics transition to a big, fat mid-palate saturated with nearly overripe cherries and a hefty dose of toasty oak.  Medium length finish is marked with charred notes and low acidity.  No doubt fans of big, fruit-forward California fruit bombs will go ga-ga over this, but I find the wine way over the top.  WB 83.

2010 Right Bank.  Very deep red.  A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, the 2010 Right Bank is characterized by notes of espresso, chocolate and violets.  Med- to full bodied, with dark plums and vanilla on the palate that eventually give way to big tannins on the fairly long finish.  Give this modern-styled blend a few years in the bottle.  WB 92.

2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  Nearly impenetrable black, the 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon gives off aromas of cassis, licorice, smoke and vanilla.  Big-bodied, with tons of sweet vanilla, slight minerality and a high degree of refinement, the wine comes across as a quintessential high quality Napa Cabernet.  Needs a few years of bottle age for all the elements to come together.  WB 92+.

2009 Eloge. Very deep purple.  A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot and 8% Merlot, the 2009 Eloge is highly aromatic, with complex notes of flowers and menthol.  It is deep and vinous, with licorice, blackberries and some oak notes that lead to a long finish with highly refined tannins.  Clearly the flagship wine, and will improve in bottle for some time. WB 93+.

2008 Petite Syrah.  Spicy aromatics and a huge, fruit-filled body are the distinguishing characteristics of the 2008 Petite Syrah.  Well-crafted, with no sense of alcohol despite it being well in excess of 15%.  While enjoyable now, this has a long life ahead of it.  WB 92.

 

Beringer

2006 Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon.  Ripe, nearly jammy aromas of red raspberry and camphor.  Lots of bitter oak on the palate, with clamping tannins on the finish.  This one seems imbalanced, but perhaps it needs more time.  Hard to say if the fruit will outlive the tannin here. WB 84-86.

2009 Bancroft Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon.  Black raspberry and incense notes of moderate intensity characterize the nose.  Black fruit on the entry, with toasty oak on the mid-palate and a fairly short finish.  A bit heavy-handed.  WB 88.

2009 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  Purple hued.  Sweet cherries, underbrush and some spicy wood dominate the 2009 Private Reserve Cabernet.  While the wine exhibits good refinement, it is lacking the density of previous top vintages such as 2007, 2005 etc.  Needs some cellar time, but will never be a blockbuster.  WB 91.

1996 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 1996 vintage of the Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon opens up with marinated cherries, spices and some mustiness.  Suave on the palate, with a medium to full body and a long, minerally finish, the wine is clearly in its drinking window.  Presence of some tannin on the long finish shows that the wine will last for at least another decade, though I am not sure that it will improve from this point on.  Quality-wise, it is just a hair below the terrific duo of 1991 and 1994.  WB 94.

2007 Nightingale.  Apricots and sweet beeswax aromas give way to a super-sweet palate, with good acidity and a promising future.  At the moment the wine is a bit four-square, but should gain in complexity with some aging.  One of the best Nightingales in recent years. WB 93.

1995 Nightingale.  Dark amber in color.  Honey and butterscotch notes befitting of a fully mature wine on the downslope of its useful drinking window.  Very heavy on the butterscotch on the palate, with some orange peel mixed in for good measure.  This should be consumed now. WB 90.

 

Montelena Estate

2011 Riesling.  There are 1,500 cases of the 2011 Riesling, a wine that gives off aromas of sweet candy, flowers, apricots and peaches.  Good minerality on the palate, this simple but quaffable wine drops off quickly in the mouth.  Quality-wise, think mid-level QbA.  WB 88.

2011 Sauvignon Blanc.  A 500-case cuvee, the pale yellow 2011 Sauvignon Blanc starts off with a hypothetical mix orange rinds and considerable grassiness.  Light-bodied and ungenerous on the palate, with high acidity, a steely personality and a short finish, the wine could seemingly use some more fruit.  WB 86.

2010 Chardonnay. Light Yellow.  Green apples and a light body characterize this Chardonnay.  It is quite acidic, with a tart fruit and a moderately intense finish.  Somewhat reminiscent of a North Coast version of a good villages-level Chablis, enjoy this non-malolactic Chardonnay over the next decade. WB 89.

2009 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.  A ruby-red blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, the 2009 Napa Cabernet is aromatically demure, with some flowers apparent after considerable coaxing.  The palate is characterized by red raspberries, plums and is of decidedly medium weight.  Sound acidity is evident on the medium length finish.  WB 90.

2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.  A slightly smoky nose, with copious blackberries and licorice on the medium to full-bodied palate are the hallmarks of the 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.  The flagship wine exhibits a good degree of refinement and a long finish which is at present dominated by a late note of red cherries and minerals.  This will reward considerable cellaring.  WB 93.

 

Alpha Omega

2010 Chardonnay.  The gold-colored 2010 Chardonnay sees 80% new oak.  Smoky, with hints of butter, citrus and minerals, it already exhibits good depth and complexity, in a no-holds-barred style.  Good acidity marks the finish of this solidly made wineWB 91.

2009 Proprietary Red.  A Bordeaux-style blend, the deep red-colored 2009 Proprietary Red is a meaty, full-bodied wine, with a good dose of vanillin oak accompanying its big-fruited personality.  It will require a few years to settle down and absorb the oak before it is drinkable.  WB 90.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon.  This rather modern-styled Cabernet assembled from fruit hailing from a wide variety of Napa valley vineyards is big, meaty and full-bodied.  Like the 2009 Proprietary Red, it needs to absorb a good amount of oak before it is ready for prime time.  However it is better balanced and more promising. WB 91.

2010 Georges III Cabernet Sauvignon.  Ruby-red.  Restrained aromas of spicy red berries characterize the 2010 Georges III.  Medium- to full-bodied, with good refinement, it finishes with reasonable length and good intensity.  A nice, if not profound example of this bottling. WB 92.

2010 Beckstoffer To-Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon “South Block”.  Flowers, Asian spices and black raspberries emanate from the glass of the South Block Cabernet.  Very plush in the mouth, with spices, earth, and great energy and balance.  Finishes very long, with a whiplash of minerals and late-arriving tannins.  Great stuff, but requires years in the cellar. WB 95.

2010 Beckstoffer To-Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon “North Block”.  This wine opens up with a nearly jammy, sweet nose of black cherries and hints of smoke.  Liqueur-like on the mid palate, with a very long, graceful finish – not a hard edge to be found here.  Could not be more different in style from the previous wine, yet of a very high quality nonetheless. WB 94.

2010 Era.  A flagship Bordeaux blend, the 2010 Era is stacked and packed with sweet fruit on the nose and palate.  Very full-bodied, with excellent refinement, sound acidity and a solid tannic spine that carries on all the way through to the long, fine-grained finish.  This impressive concoction will require 10+ years of cellaring prior to consumption.  WB 94+.

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard.  Deep purple in color, the 2010 Stagecoach starts off with lifted aromas of smoked meat, crushed blackberries and a faint hint of violets.  Suave in the mouth, with licorice, underbrush and great harmony and balance.  A long finish with massive tannins hints at a slow evolution in bottle.  WB 94.

2010 Syrah.  Bacon fat, Kalamata olives and smoked spices could discerned in the aromatics of the 2010 Syrah.  Sweet on the entry, the wine expands in the mouth, with a raw meat-like component standing out among the rest.  Finishes with good, but not outstanding length.  While approachable early, this will likely improve a bit in the bottle.  WB 92+.

 

EMH-Black Cat

2007 Black Cat Cabernet Sauvignon.  Very dark, nearly impenetrable red.  Deep currants, minerals and blackberries make up the 2007 Black Cat.  Not overdone by any means in this vintage, the wine exhibits good energy in the mouth, with some licorice and plums intermixed with considerable underlying minerality.  Finishes quite long with considerable tannins.  This should be allowed to sleep in the cellar until 2017.  Might be the best Black Cat to date.  WB 93+.

2009 Black Cat Cabernet Sauvignon.  Deep ruby-red.  Red raspberries dominate the aromatics here at the moment.  Lighter in density than the 2007, with a slight liqueur-like quality, the wine glides gently across the palate to a moderate-intensity finish with building tannins.  This will require a few more years of slumber, but will not approach the heights of either 2007 or 2010.  WB 91.

2010 Black Cat Cabernet Sauvignon.  Dark ruby-red.  Rather restrained aromatically, the 2010 Black Cat comes off with a Pauillac-like nose of cassis, spiced plum and a whiff of flowers.  Very elegant in texture, with a great balance and refinement which carries all the way through to the long finish.  This is a very young and promising vintage which may in time eclipse the 2007 – no small feat!  WB 93+.

 

 

 

 

 


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