The Oregon Wine Trail Los Angeles tasting was held on April 24, 2018 at the Line Hotel in Korea Town in Los Angeles.  The tasting offered a glimpse into the value and quality available from estates whose high elevation terroirs benefit from superior growing conditions and significant diurnal temperature swings.

Case in point are several examples of varietals that seem to be very difficult to produce in a balanced fashion. Troon Vineyard’s 2015 Tannat is made in a style which seems to be almost impossible to do in California. This offering from Troon is fully ripe, approachable, even playfully acidic, and yet it is picked at about 24 brix, with a 14.3 % final alcohol. Why is this difficult to do?  In California’s Central Coast region or in Napa Valley, for instance, in order to get Tannat fully ripe, long hang times are needed, which means a later harvest. A Later harvest usually means that brix at harvest would be in the 26-28 brix range, resulting in alcohol levels of about16 percent. Here, the cooler terroirs permit full physiological ripeness at much lower brix levels, and the resulting wine benefits tremendously. WB 91.

Another outstanding wine is the Cooper Mountain Vineyards 2016 Life Pinot Noir. This is a cool climate Pinot Noir that has the mid-palate density of a Merlot, yet is still light on its feet.  How can this be? Is it the terroir, the winemaking, the farming, or something else entirely? By thinning the leaf canopy around the grape clusters, it encourages the Pinot grapes to thicken their skin. When the wine is made, the thicker skins allow significant mid-palate density, while carefully judged winemaking results in a final product that showcases the subtlety and delicacy of the inner Pinot Noir fruit. A very provocative offering. WB 92.

The X-Novo Vineyard Chardonnay from Eola-Amity Hills by Flaneur Wines is a very engaging and balanced 15-clone blend. The 600 ft high vineyard with its volcanic soil and broad range of clones gives rise to a Chardonnay with enchanting complexity and refreshing acidity.  The wine spends 18 months on the lees, without stirring, which results in a fuller mid-palate without any ‘bloated’ sensation. WB 93.

What is compelling about some Oregon winemakers is that some still entertain the concept of growing varietals that do not necessarily maximize the revenue of the vineyard, but rather express the terroir and the winemaker’s vision. The Foris Vineyards 2016 Gewurztraminer from the Rogue Valley is just such an example. Gewurztraminer can be cloyingly sweet or overly floral, yet this offering is grown at a 1500-1600 ft elevation, and shows a refreshing honeysuckle on the nose, rather than a stiflingly huge floral note, very engaging acidity and a balance that is rare to see outside of its native Europe. WB 92.

Aside from the number and quality of unusual varietals, what was eye-opening in this tasting was the number of solid Pinot Noir offerings that retail in the $12 – $25 range. In California, little decent Pinot Noir is available at this price point. At this tasting, it seemed that nearly every winery had a crowd-pleaser in that price range.

For those looking for more esoteric Oregon Pinot Noir heritage clone blends, the $30-65 range has much to offer in this tasting. Stoller Family Estate offers just such a wine. They enter the Pinot market with their $30 retail 2016 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, a blend of Pommard / Vainsville 667 and 777 clones. The Stoller Family 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir ($45 retail) hails from Dundee Hills.  The wine spends 16 months in 30-40% new oak and shows a balance of fruit, acid, and old world earthiness, all while having notable persistence on the palate and a 40 second long finish. WB 91+.

Another example of great wine making is the sophisticated opulence of the Colene Clemens Vineyards 2014 Victoria Estate Pinot Noir ($65 retail) from the Chehalem Mountains in Willamette Valley. While not as racy as some Pinots, this offering uses its less acidic profile (ph 3.55- 3.60) to its advantage, lending it some mid-palate fullness while the fineness of the tannins from aging in older oak barrels complements the voluptuous yet restrained fruit.

In summary, the combination of value, quality, and winemaking skill on display at the Oregon Wine Trail tasting on April 24, 2018 in Los Angeles was noteworthy. Oregon offers much to those who seek it out. Try not to overlook it.

Los Angeles, CA. June 7, 2016. Approximately 115 wine were poured.  Retail price points ranged from about $10 USD to almost $80/USD per bottle. Vintages varied from 2006 to 2015. There were some disappointments in the group–Mostly the second labels, such as:

Chateau Pichon Longueville Reserve de la Comtesse de Lalande 2006, with a suggested retail pricing of $52, 46% Cab Sauv, 32% Merlot, 13% Cab Franc, 9% Petit Verdot was nothing like its bigger brother. It did not show enough acid, and was monochromatic on the palate–with a simple mid palate fullness and nothing more. Perhaps it needed more age and air. WB 85.

(Similar experiences with other second labels)

What was ironically more approachable and accessible was:

Chateau de Pez, 2011 with a suggested retail of $45, 52% Cab Sauv, 46% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, from Saint Estephe with a suggested retail pricing of $45, was quite a bit more engaging with a rustic feel, better balance, better acid, and more overall accessibility than the above Pichon. WB 88.

A low price, great value red:

Chateau du Retout, 2011 with a suggested retail price of $19.99, 65% Cab Sauv, 33% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot from Haut Medoc, almost stole the show. Rich red palatte, with a barnyard like funk on the nose and good overall balance made this wine not only very interesting, but a great value as well. One of the best red wines of the tasting with a great price point. WB91.

There were a few interesting dry whites:

‘G’ Chateau Guiraud, 2014 with a suggested retail of $22.99, 50% Sauv Blanc, 50%Semillon from Bordeaux was very endearing because of is balance, accessibility, abundance of minerality while having an air of sophistication. A pleasant surprise in this price range. One of the best white wines of the tasting, also with a very good price point. WB89.

Chateau des Gravieres Blanc, 2014 with a suggested retail of $14, 80% Sauv Blanc, 20% Semillion from Bordeaux was a best value and we gave  it the highest rating for a dry white in this tasting. Elegant, fresh, good acid (about 3.2 pH), with notes of green apple and dry gooseberry. It needs a year or two in the bottle to integrate. WB90.

There were two desert whites that were very engaging:

Chateau Dauphine-Rondillon Cuvee Classique, 2009 from Loupiac with a suggested retail of $17 was the best price/value desert wine of the event. Rich and full like a classic Sauternes, however with a very engaging price point. Sugar is 119 gm/l . Its rich viscosity engages the palate, and it could use a bit more acid, but at this price point, how can one complain. WB89.

Chateau Dauphine-Rondillon Cuvee d’Or Vielle Vignettes, 2007 from Loupiac with a suggested retail of $25 was probably the best wine of the event. It could hold its own against many classic Sauternes, even vintage. It had layers of fruit, essentially ripe peach that permeated the palate. Multidimensional. Intriguing. More sophisticated, engaging and alive than a young d’Yquem. It has a botrytis-like richness at an amazing price point. Find it, buy it. You will be thankful. WB93-94.

While the other wines at the event could have shown better, they did not at the time of the tasting. Perhaps several hours of additional air could have brought some of them to life. -P. Ronen with contributions by S. Woods.